Save a Small Fortune in Taxes re: Charitable Giving

This tip is specifically written to comply with US tax law. I’m not a tax attorney, or qualified tax professional, so seek competent, professional advice before actually implementing this suggestion.

Giving to Charity — the Normal Deduction
When you give to a charitable organization, the IRS allows you to deduct that contribution from your taxable income. For instance, if I had $60,000 of taxable income and donated $6,000 to a qualified charitable organization, my taxable income would be $54,000 ($60,000-$6,000).

What are the tax savings from this? It depends on my marginal tax rate. For the sake of this example, let’s say it’s 20%.

Without the charitable contribution, my taxes would be $12,000 ($60,000 * .20).

With the charitable contribution, my taxes would be $10,800 ($54,000 * .20).

Total tax savings as a result of the contribution: $1,200.

(The quick way to calculate the savings associated with any deduction is to multiply the deduction by your marginal tax rate. In this case, we would do: $6,000 * .2 and get $1,200.)

But this isn’t the Savings Tip.

Giving to Charity — the Souped-Up Deduction

Let’s suppose that instead of giving $6,000 in cash to a charitable organization, you gave $6,000 of an appreciated asset. For our example, let’s pretend you bought into XYZ stock at $1,000 and it has now appreciated to be worth $6,000. Let’s also assume that you had held the XYZ stock for three years.

First, let’s do an example without the charitable contribution.

You decide to sell the stock, in order to donate the $6,000 to a charity. Because you’ve sold a capital asset, you’re subject to the capital gains tax (remember, governments tax us buying, earning, growing, and dying). In this instance, your capital gain is $5,000 ($6,000 – $1,000). The capital gains tax is either 15% or 5% depending on your situation. For this example, let’s assume it’s 15%. The tax due on this sale of XYZ stock would be $750 ($5,000 * 15%). (Special Note: If the XYZ stock had been held less than a year, it would be classified as a short-term capital gain and would be taxed at our example person’s ordinary tax rate of 20%, so the tax on the realized gain from the sale would be $1,000, not $750).

BUT, you can completely avoid the capital gains tax if you simply donate the stock to the charity. The charity can then sell the stock and have the $6,000 in cash (less a tiny selling fee probably). So, you avoid a $750 capital gains tax because your basis increased from $1,000 to $6,000, but you get the full deduction available to you of the current value of the stock at $6,000.

This is the scary thing about taxes. You can do something one legal way and pay more. Or you can do it another legal way, and pay less.

This is also why you should get great advice. TurboTax is fine and everything, but it would never tell you what you should have done, only what the tax ramifications are from what you have done. I’m actually working with an extremely knowledgeable tax person about putting together some fantastic ways to save on taxes. We’re still in the concept stage, but I’m pretty excited about it.

Takeaway: If you’re going to be selling some stock, and you give to charities, considering giving the appreciated stock (or a portion of it) to the charity to avoid the capital gains tax.

The Unbelievable Savings Achieved through Index Fund Investing

You can save a boatload of money if you decide to become an index fund investor. One of the first articles ever posted to YNAB’s blog was a reprint about index fund, or “passive” investing. If you’d like to read a truly excellent piece, head there.

It’s very debatable whether an actively managed mutual fund can even beat an index fund (2/3 don’t).

We’ll set that aside though, I just want to show you the measurable cost of actively managed funds.

According to Morningstar, the expense ratio for large blend index funds averages .59 percent. Also according to Morningstar, the expense ratio for large blend actively managed funds averages 1.22 percent. (The expense ratio is basically what you pay to be invested in that fund. You can consider it as an offset to your annual return).

Now…a mere .63 percent difference…that’s rather small don’t you think?

Absolutely.

Until you introduce the power of compounding.

Let’s assume you max out your Roth IRA at $4,000 per year and do that diligently for 30 years. Let’s also assume the market gives you an 8% return, on average, for those 30 years. What type of impact will that .63% difference have on your nest egg?

If both funds performed the same (the actively managed fund consistently performed with the market, never beating it, but also never losing to it), your actively managed fund would be at $389,000.

Your index fund would be at $441,000.

To put this into a more chewable perspective, that’s a monthly savings of $144 (perspectives get a bit weird with compounding numbers, but you get my drift).

If you increase the length of investing time, or payments made, the difference only grows larger.

I know, there will always be some advisers out there touting their fund as the “next best thing”, but remember that 2/3 of actively managed funds don’t beat the market. You’re paying twice as much to have them do worse. Save your money (and time) and have a large chunk of your nest egg invested in index funds. If you still want to “dabble”, do it with an inconsequential portion of your nest egg that will give you the investing “rush” you’re looking for, but won’t set you back if you lose it all :)

Back to the Good Old Days

I tweeted this yesterday:

re: YNAB 3 (http://tinyurl.com/mnlyxm). This week we went from 2 FT devs to 5. Here’s hoping we maintain a scorching development pace.

A scorching development pace = a scorching burn rate of cash.

For years I’ve operated with YNAB always in the black. Always. Even when the black was approximately $42 (February of 2005).

The other day I looked at what the developers would cost weekly, revenue projections, and money saved and realize we’re going to be deep in the red until YNAB 3 launches. Based on our burn rate, and the cash we’ve saved (operating on a budget, afterall) I think we’ll be just fine.

But it’s going to be a lot closer to the edge than I’ve been with the business (or personally) for years. The closest feeling I can get is when I did YNAB full-time during the summer of 2006 while I was studying for the CPA exam (that was when YNAB Pro was being developed!) and waiting to start my “real” job several months later.

In light of the cash flow projections, and the resulting knapp (German) feeling I was experiencing, I did what any good husband would do. I called Julie to let her know.

Jesse: Hey Julie. I was running the numbers for how much development we still have left to go, how much we’re going to be bringing in, and how much we have saved in the business to tide us over and…things are going to be tight for the next while.

Julie: How tight?

Jesse: Well, you know how your birthday is in a few days?

Jesse: We just need to tighten the belt as much as possible and put off all discretionary purchases. I don’t want to have to tap our emergency fund (an aside: because it took us so LONG to get it!).

Julie: I don’t either. What about groceries?

Jesse: Yeah, we probably should feed the kids less.

Jesse: Just avoid discretionary stuff.

Julie: Okay.

And THAT is why I love my wife.

But this is the real story.

Since that discussion, I have been loving life (even more; I’m a natural life-lover). I feel like we’re back to the Good Old Days of simplicity. Decisions are already made. No, we’re not eating out. No, we’re not going out. No, we’re not buying that. This is easy. It’s like I’ve rediscovered my discipline from my college-poor days.

How can I keep this feeling indefinitely?

I’m not sure. All I know is that it’s a welcomed feeling of control over my money. It is just money after all. And I feel like I’ve rediscovered a part of me, and a part of our relationship, that was stifled by the List to Make the House Awesome (It’s separate from the Budget where we were throwing extra money, working our way down the list of prioritized things we want for our house to be awesome. I believe there are 18 items and we’ve managed to cross off two.), social events, etc.

Someone please point me to this post once the finances return to normal.

Takeaways:

You don’t need that. Don’t buy it.

Go home to eat dinner.

Repair that. Don’t replace it.

Increase memories and decrease stuff.

Simplify.

(An aside after re-reading this and debating about even posting it: The message in this is the Good Old Days of simplicity a la Joe Dominguez’s Your Money or Your Life — not our temporary cash flow crunch a la [insert bank name here]. We’re fine. You really think I’d do things any other way than to be extremely certain that everything will be okay? No. We’re not offering the option of pre-paying for YNAB 3. Though I’m flattered at the offer.)

29 Ways to Save a Small Fortune on Your Energy Bill

1. Forgo using your central heating system and opt for space heaters (this is especially effective if you have a larger house and are really only in a few rooms during the day anyway).

2. Use ceiling fans instead of the air conditioner.

3. Use cold water to wash your laundry.

4. Use a clothesline.

5. Use compact fluorescents in lieu of regular light bulbs. This is a quick fix and the payback is there.

6. Hibernate your computer when it’s not in use.

7. Replace your AC filters when required (or use a permanent filter and simply wash it monthly).

8. Close the AC vents in rooms you don’t use.

9. If you have an old AC unit (10+ years old), replace it! The newer models use up to 50% less electricity.

10. Use a programmable thermostat for a central air unit and turn the air off while you’re at work.

11. This main seem simple, but make sure your fans are all spinning the right way :) You want to be pushing the air DOWN.

12. Knock the thermostat up a few degrees and see if you notice a difference. If you don’t, you just saved yourself 2-3 percent.

13. I love plants and gardening, so I’m also down with planting shade trees strategically (this can knock temperatures down by 20 degrees in a now-shaded room!).

14. Insulate your attic. Poor insulation may mean you’re losing 30-40% of the cool air in your house.

15. Make sure your ducts aren’t leaking anywhere.

16. Keep an eye on windows and doors to ensure they’re sealed properly.

17. Block sunlight with window coverings (drapes, blinds, shutters, etc.).

18. Install reflective film on windows that take a lot of sun. Payback on this is three to five years (though that may vary based on your own energy costs in your area). It doesn’t block the light — just the heat. Very cool.

19. Use rugs on bare floors to keep a room warmer.

20. Throw on an extra layer and lower your thermostat during colder seasons.

21. Use a special tank blanket to wrap your water heater’s tank (if you don’t use tankless). It’s not a huge savings though — about $20/year. (From Anthony, a commenter below: “There’s a huge, huge, ‘it depends’ here. Newer water heaters (we replaced ours in 2007) are much more efficient and don’t need this. More importantly, check your warranty – many say that the warranty will be voided if you use one of these blankets.” — Thanks for the caveat Anthony!)

22. Fix any leaky faucets.

23. If you’re shopping for a new dryer, get one with a moisture sensor. You’ll never run it longer than you need to!

24. Consider a front-loading washer. They use less water and they leave less water in your clothes (which means less work for your dryer).

25. Clean your lint filter after each load.

26. When the dryer’s running in the summer, close the door (keep the heat out) and in the winter, open the door (let the heat in).

27. Use motion sensors for outside lighting (payback’s usually 3-5 months).

28. Use motion sensing lights for the interior as well!

29. Increase the temperature of your fridge/freezer to the highest recommendation. You’ll save 5-10% of electricity that way and won’t notice a difference.

These tips won’t make you rich, but I find it very fulfilling to not be wasteful. Your own mileage may vary.

Problems all day today

This has been quite a day. My apologies to everyone affected.

We had our domain lose all of its settings so, in short:

- the site pointed back to an old instance of our site from February. Sure, it was fun to take a trip down memory lane, but I would have loved for that to have been voluntary.

- the download link to grab the software was broken until about 7:30 EST. It’s now fixed.

- the purchase link to buy the software (something I’m mildly concerned about) has been broken for several hours and is still broken as I write this. It’s simply taking a while for the domain to propagate with the new settings (the old ones that were lost). At least that’s what they tell me. I’m crossing my fingers. (Update: purchasing is now working again).

I haven’t been able to get a straight answer from tech support. I hadn’t logged into our registrar for days, and then suddenly things are broken. We have the youneedabudget.com domain hosted with Godaddy. I’m not one to get too down on businesses, but given the absolute horrid support I received today, I feel inclined to caution you if you’re registering domains with Godaddy.com. A few dollars more per year with another registrar may well be worth it.

(On a brighter note, Pair.com, our host, has phenomenal support where I’m speaking with a real person in less than a minute and that person knows their stuff.)

A Different Way to Look at Your Money (Laundry — Not Laundering)

(This was originally in response to a customer’s question — something along the lines of ‘How does this work really?’ Her husband is a doctor, which is why you’ll see that mentioned below).

The master bedroom in our house is upstairs, and we have a great, huge chest of drawers there. The dresser was one of our first pieces of furniture, so it has sentimental value.

When the laundry is done, it ALL goes upstairs and is literally dumped on our bed. My wife and I then fold it while we’re watching some show or something.

Your money (and everyone else’s, so don’t feel bad) is not as bad as the clothes all sitting on the bed. If I want to wear my red shirt, I CAN just start rummaging through the clothes. I know it’s there. It takes me a while to find it, it’s not efficient, and I know there’s a better way, but hey, I found my red shirt so the crisis is averted. This money management method doesn’t work long, and leads to stress, and lost clothes (money).

What your money is probably like though (again don’t feel bad) is maybe something like this. You fold all the clothes, and then you remove all the drawers from the dresser and just stuff them into the “shell” of the dresser however they’ll fit. NOW, if I want my red shirt, I KNOW it’s in the dresser, I just have to rummage until I find it. It kind of looks like everything’s fine from the outside (at least when viewing the dresser from the side), but really there’s chaos in there! And it stresses you out. And you know in your heart of hearts that it’s not the right way to do things :) The drawer-less dresser is your main checking account.

YNAB is the drawers.

Each drawer has a purpose. Top-left is for the unmentionables, top-middle for socks, second drawer down for t-shirts and shorts, etc.

Right now you have this pile of clothes in a drawer-less dresser and YNAB’s going to apply some organization to it.

You’ll create budget categories.

Each month your hard-working, educated, super-human doctor husband (seriously, super-human most likely, I have friends trying to make it through residency!) brings home a clean pile of laundry and dumps in on the bed. The way you guys have this working (for every couple, this is different), it’s now basically your responsibility. Your job will be to take that pile of money and organize it into drawers (categories).

Heck, you may have a closet for hanging clothes, and two dressers (a checking account, a few savings accounts, etc.) but YNAB doesn’t care about where the clothes are physically NEARLY as much as it cares about what you’re going to DO with the clothes.

So, back to money.

Let’s say you take home $5,000 per paycheck or something like that. There’s that pile of money. As far as YNAB is concerned, you’ll record that as an Inflow and that’s the equivalent of your husband dumping the piles of clothes onto the bed. Now, that money is ready to be allocated.

You’ll notice the $5k sitting in your Available for that month. You’ll want to modify, create, and delete the default Budget categories to fit your needs. The defaults are good, but you’ll want to tweak.

Now you simply start adding money into the Budgeted column. Have a bill due? Add the money there. Want to start saving for a great vacation? Add some money there. You know the tires are balding…add some money to the Repairs category. Give a little away, save some in your emergency fund, etc.

There are some intricacies to YNAB’s Method that make it a bit quirky (massively effective! :) ) and the first is Rule One. This may be stretching it, but going back to the clothes analogy, if you’re living on Rule One it basically means your husband brings home a pile of clothes in March and dumps it…where would a guy dump it? On the floor.

You don’t care so much though. In April, You (YNAB automatically) take that huge pile on the floor and move it to the bed. You put it all away, organized according to your and your husband’s values/priorities, and you’re feeling really good about things. Because as you’re spending money, pulling clothes out of the drawer for this or that in April (new baby clothes–congrats by the way!) you see your husband — halfway through the month — march up the stairs with a whole new pile of clothes, which he dumps on the floor!

See how good that feels? You’re there spending money and while you’re doing that, your husband’s out there earning money that you don’t even NEED until May!

Rule Two basically says, “Hey, don’t leave clothes on the bed. Make sure they’re all put away.” (prioritized, doing a job, etc.) This is huge psychologically, but we won’t get into that.

Rule Three comes about where you have this HUGE drawer in your dresser that’s pretty empty, but you want to take some sweet vacation. Each month you just throw some clothes in there. As time goes by, the drawer becomes ever fuller until you take that vacation, don’t use any debt, and have the time of your life. When you get home from vacation that drawer is empty and you don’t feel guilty at all, because that’s what it’s there for.

Rule Four helps everything stay in balance by forcing you to pay yourself back if you go over budget. Can’t really extend the analogy too far on this one… ;)

Save a Bundle on 'Vacation'

The time is fast approaching where people will start thinking about, planning, and going on vacation. If you’re looking for a way to have a great time and save a bundle, you need to learn about staycations.

Urban Dictionary states that a staycation is “a vacation that is spent at one’s home enjoying all that home and one’s home environs have to offer.”

To be honest, that doesn’t sound to appealing, but if we dig down a bit, a great case can be made!

First of all, let’s quickly examine the normal vacation:

- You leave your “comfort” zone.
- You’re stressed about forgetting something, being on time, losing things on the way, going fast, waiting, etc.
- The hotel bed’s not as nice, clean, soft, cold, or warm as you’d like.
- The food is high-calorie, low-density, straight-to-the-hips type stuff!
- According to the American Automobile Association, the average North American vacation “will cost $244 per day for two people for lodging and meals… Add some kids and airfare, and a 10-day vacation could top $10,000.”
- Let’s face it. Vacations are exhausting!

Staycations are done from your home (usually taking day trips), where you don’t need to pack, wait at airports, or make unusually long drives. You get to sleep in your own bed and you can pack healthier food that is far less expensive!

Here are some tips to make your staycation a raving success:

- Shut off all communication. Do not be reachable by your employer if at all possible.
- Set a specific date and time.
- Take plenty of pictures.
- PLAN YOUR ACTIVITIES
- Avoid your normal routines.
- Consult tourist guides for your area and go into “tourist mode”. You’ll be amazed at all of the great places surrounding you!

Your staycation will bomb if you wake up and aimlessly begin watching The Today Show instead of getting out and doing something in your local area that you’ve never done before. Be relentless about planning. (Even if you’re planning to sleep until 10, eat breakfast until noon, swim in your backyard until 3, and catch a matinee then dinner — see how easy that was?)

Remember, this isn’t necessarily about not spending any money, it’s about spending a lot less and exploring the area closer to home. It’s about intentionally relaxing :)

Is Gardening Economical?

I am no expert gardener.

To be brutually honest, I killed the first eight tomato plants of this season. This is my first attempt at a garden and I am definitely a walking example of learning (woops!) by doing.

However, now that I own a small piece of earth (alright, the bank has the title, but I’ll get it from them soon enough…) I’ve become increasingly intrigued by this whole “gardening thing.”

We reserve Sundays in our household truly as days of rest — trying to make it a day separate and special from the other six hectic and unbelievably busy days. As of late, my Sunday schedule has looked something like this:

1. Go to church.
2. Read about gardening.
3. Go to bed.

This Savings Tip is dedicated toward the economics of gardening. Is it economical at all? If you don’t kill your plants, and do a few other things right, I think it is. I’ll definitely report back at the end of the season (and thanks be to YNAB for allowing me to track each and every gardening expenditure).

With that said, I have a laundry list of things you should consider if you want to make your garden economical:

The Direct Costs

1. You’re dealing with nature here, and since so much of nature is still free, you have an advantage. Don’t fall for the fancy marketing at your nearest Big Box Home Store. You can score free fertilizer if you ask around. Collect rain water. Forgo the power tools (you’ll burn more calories to boot).

2. Time. I’m finding out that this is a big one for me. Since my learning curve is still so steep, the time I’m investing is significant. However, this is time I would be spending relaxing in some other way — it’s not time I’m taking off of work or anything like that.

3. I’ve done quite a bit of driving around, fetching things I needed for the first year of planting (mainly to build the boxes) and that’s consumed some gas. Not a ton, but that’s still there and should be considered.

The Direct Benefits (Vegetables You Can Eat)

1. You have to eat what you grow. If you don’t eat vegetables, then you shouldn’t plant vegetables. If you can only handle a few tomatoes per week, you should only plan to harvest a few tomatoes each week. Wasted produce will drive down your return on investment. (Yes, leave it to an accountant to take one of nature’s true miracles and brutally whittle away at it until it’s simply an equation giving you your return on investment. I apologize in advance.)

2. You don’t have to go HUGE to get some economies of scale. That’s where this natural miracle really shines. One pot. One sunny spot. Some water (collected in a rain bucket because that water’s still free last time I checked — and better for your plants than the treated stuff). A tomato seed. Some soil. That plant will produce dollars and dollars worth of tomatoes for several months. Your total investment could easily be south of $3.

(An aside: I was ordering some soil at our IFA store the other day and committed an atrocity. I called it dirt. Speaking of dirty, you should’ve seen the look I received from the lady at the register.)

The Indirect Benefits

1. I’m getting additional exercise beyond the extremely dull self-punishment I dole out to myself every morning in the form of pushups, pullups and running.

2. It’s not a tomato-to-tomato comparison when you’re looking at saving money on produce. The closest comparison you’ll get is by comparing organic produce to what you’ll be growing in your own garden. Even comparing it to organic is a stretch. The taste of your own produce (both psychological and actual) will be so much better!

3. There’s something intrinsically pleasing about growing your own food. I can’t whittle it down to a dollar figure. It’s impossible :)

Getting Started

There are some great resources in getting started. I plowed through Square Foot Gardening by Mel Bartholemew and highly recommend it. It’s an intense gardening method that lends itself toward being economical much quicker (more produce, less space, tools, and time required). This is not a “quick hit” savings tip, but it’s still there for you to consider!

I ate a radish from my garden yesterday — first bit of produce from the garden this year. Best radish I ever had. Also, for a very in-depth analysis of the economics of gardening, you’ll want to check out this post on Revive Your Life.

An Ounce of Prevention…

Hello Savvy Saver!

This isn’t mean to scare, or alarm, or start a panic.

My wife and I are both signed up for Lifelock now. Lately I’ve felt fairly exposed on the internet and wanted some peace of mind. Lifelock basically puts a fraud alert on your credit file — forever. If someone attempts to apply for credit in any way, the file is shown as flagged for a fraud alert and the person providing the credit is required to call the number on file and verify.

The other day, months after we had signed up, I bought a new mobile phone. They were doing the usual credit check and then the clerk handed me the phone and said,

“The person that runs credit checks for us said they’re required to speak with you and have you answer a few questions.”

Well, it turned out to be several questions and I was lucky enough to be able to answer them correctly. They were about previous addresses, the name of our mortgage provider, etc. — things that an ID thief most likely wouldn’t have.

I’ll admit I felt pretty good about things.

Be advised that, as far as I can tell, you could just reissue fraud alerts with all three credit reporting agencies by yourself. Lifelock does it faster and they have the whole thing streamlined, where it’d probably take you an hour or so each time you needed to renew the alert. I decided the service was worth it (and, if your ID ever is stolen, they basically have an insurance policy where they’ll do the work cleaning it up for you).

I don’t really like Lifelock’s advertising their CEOs SSN everywhere, but I recognize they’re trying to prove a point :)

How will this save you money? The same way insurance saves you money. Your insuring against an event that you otherwise couldn’t (or don’t want to) afford.

This link to Lifelock will get you 10% off. (I looked for steeper discounts and couldn’t find any — though 10% off a monthly subscription does add up I suppose).

Alright, so with Lifelock you have prevention. It’s basically like the alarm being tripped when a burglar opens a window.

Frankly, I’d rather have the burglar never come so close! Read on to see what I mean.

Last week while traveling I read a book called, How to be Invisible by J.J. Luna. I have no desire to be James Bond or Jason Bourne, and I’ll admit that some of the tactics in the book did feel a bit like I was working for the CIA. However, what impressed me personally was the emphasis on taking some key steps toward increasing your privacy and protection. If you do just a few of these things, you’ll be safer than 98% of the population:

– Stop receiving mail at your home (use a PO Box or, better yet, build a relationship with a bookkeeper or other paper-pushing business that will accept your mail for you). Do everything possible to dissociate your name from where you physically reside.

– Secure your wireless network in your home. If you can live without wireless (I can’t), then keep the connections wired.

– Store critical documents/valuable objects in a fireproof safe and do not put the safe in the master bedroom. That’s the first place a burglar will look for valuables. You may even consider setting up a decoy safe in the master bedroom with a few hundred dollars in there and some cubic zirconia.

– Only provide your social to government agencies and, even then, push hard to be able to get around providing it. If your social is needed for a credit check, then you should seriously consider whether you really want that credit. (You likely know how I feel about debt, so I won’t go into that here).

– Never provide your birth date, except to a government agency, and do that only when there’s no other way to get around it.

– Consider having your vehicles owned by and registered under a separate LLC (or have each owned by an entirely different LLC). Register the LLC in a state that doesn’t require you to disclose your personal information (New Mexico is one specifically mentioned and I’m looking deeper into that this week).

– Be vigilant in giving out any personal information to anyone for any reason. Best Buy rewards? Skip them or use an alias (J Smith instead of James Smith). Your grocery rewards program? Give them fake information. The dentist for a routine checkup? They don’t need to know all of that information! They just need to look at your teeth!

– Here’s a very simple tactic for increased computer security. Have all personal data be removed from your browser when the browser is closed. In Firefox (a browser I whole-heartedly recommend if you aren’t yet using it) you can do this very easily. Go to the Preferences -> Privacy tab and check the “Always clear my private data when I close Firefox”:

Make sure you click on the Settings… button and check every option:

I don’t check the box to have it Ask me before clearing the private data — mainly because I’m already certain that I want it to :)

What exactly does this do? It clears everything out. Have you ever noticed that on some (poorly designed) order forms, you can double-click on the Credit Card Number field and see all of the entries that have been made to that field? Having the “Saved From and Search History” box checked means that won’t happen again.

What we’re trying to prevent here is having your identity stolen. This is probably the heaviest-hitting savings tip I’ve written yet — mainly because preventing it will save you hundreds of hours of headaches that can sometimes last for years.

I hope you appreciate where I’m coming from with this. Lifelock is a great service — a great preventative alarm — but keeping even that from happening will also give you a lot of peace of mind. If you have any questions at all, don’t hesitate to ask!

Last week I ate at a restaurant called the Ocean Café (I don’t recommend it for the food, regardless of what I’m about to tell you). At the end of the meal they brought back my card with the receipts. Armed with my new privacy knowledge, I used the pen to scratch out the last four digits of the credit card number (used to idenfity you for various things quite often). To my shock and surprise, all 16 digits were shown in plain sight. I don’t consider myself paranoid, but that was something else!

Update (7/31/09): I received the following email from Greg:

You should consider making your subscribers aware that Lifelock is
being sued by Experian for violation of the Fair Credit Act and that Experian has received an early judgment in its favor (See this story).

Also, check out www.identityprofiles.com for a low cost SS# protection service that will also remind you when you need to renew fraud alert requests if you are managing them on your own.

I haven’t check out identityprofiles.com yet, but wanted to make everyone aware of what looks like a viable alternative.

Save (Even More) Eating Out with Some Heartfelt Advice

I wrote a while back about an eating-out strategy that involved restaurants.com’s gift cards, along with sharing an entrée (cutting calories), etc. I received a few responses regarding tipping, and thought it’d be worth mentioning before I get into the actual money savings tip for this week.

First, to all of you who have worked for tips before, I share in your experience. I twisted balloons at restaurants when I was a junior/senior in high school and lived or died by the tips. (By the way, you can make very good money as a balloon twister).

So, my point is this. When you go into a restaurant and save a bundle with all of your coupon strategery…make sure you tip the server for the work they performed, not based on your extremely discounted bill. Be a smart tipper. Tip for good service and be aware of your discounted ticket.

Alright, onto the savings tip, which has everything to do with eating out again. Hat tip goes to Kristen out of Boston for this one.

Register at OpenTable.com. Every time you eat at a restaurant reserved through OpenTable you’ll earn points — between 100 and 1000. For every 2,000 points earned, you receive a $20 gift card. The points can accumulate, so you can eventually treat yourself to a very nice meal where the only thing you really have to pay for is the tip :)

Remember, you need to already be planning on going for this to save you money. If your sole purpose in going there was to earn points then you are fighting a losing battle my friend.

There you have it though. A very practical, tactical tip that you can implement immediately.