Jesse on Retirement: “The Whole Idea is Starting to Bug Me”

“You pile up enough tomorrows,
and you’ll find you’ve collected
a lot of empty yesterdays.”
- Professor Harold Hill, The Music Man

The following is a transcription of YNAB podcast episode 80 (with some small edits for flow). Make sure you subscribe to the podcast to get Jesse’s weekly take on budgeting and personal finance.

We’ve been talking a lot – especially since I launched that investment course – about saving for retirement (or other things). And in that course I talked about how the purpose of investing is to grow your wealth. Period.

And…to become, oh, what’s the word, like a fat-cat type person. People are sometimes bothered by the idea of wealth because sometimes they see wealth being wasted, or being used flamboyantly (if that’s the right word) – for show, for selfish reasons.

But wealth does an awful lot of good – especially on a micro level: wealth for your kids – to provide them a great education, or to provide the necessities of life to people, or just to give to worthy causes, or to pay for your daughter’s (modest) wedding.

Wealth isn’t bad it all. The investment side of things focuses a ton on retirement and it’s starting to kind of bug me. Mark’s been writing on the blog about how he wants to move – well not wants to move – but running the numbers on moving to a 2-bedroom apartment instead of having his house, and it would mean $200,000 in ten years, and that could go toward retirement.

And then people came back with all sorts of insightful commments about how there are all sorts of other factors besides just the savings and investing for retirement.

In the investing course I really push people hard toward starting, and I’m not backing down from that at all. The average 50-year-old has about $1,000 to their name for each year they are old (or young, depending on how you look at it)!

But the idea of saving and investing toward retirement has tons written about it – you see book after book after book talking about howy you can retire – you can stop working. And I just want to say that I think you should take a hard look at being content now.

It would be really, really said if you had these great kids (as I do – five kids, ages eight and under – basically piled in like a stack of pancakes). And we’re busy with them – it’s crazy at the house, truly crazy – absolute chaos. And sometimes I’m guilty of thinking “When it’s just Rose…” (She’s the youngest – not saying she’s my favorite, but she sure is cute) …”how simple will that be?” All the other kids will have moved on, and I just think about how simple that will be.

And then at the gym the other day someone told me “Oh, man – when they’re teenagers, everything changes. It’s crazy.”

So here I am, looking ahead the future, always thinking, “Man, tomorrow. That will be something.” Instead of enjoying right now. Enjoying the chaos for what it is, and just finding the joy in the moment.

I was reading a sermon by a church leader who says (paraphrasing): “If you’re always focused on tomorrow, you have a lot of empty yesterdays.”

I feel like the retirement siren song is causing us – or could cause us to be looking to that day off in the future where we get to retire and stop working. Where we get to travel more, or do more woodworking, or gardening, or whatever it is you’re excited about doing when you have more spare time. Always looking forward and saying “Oh, that’s going to be great. I’ll just survive for today.” Instead of just enjoying the moment, enjoying today for what it is.

Whether you’re sitting in a cubicle, crunching numbers (which is what I was doing back in the day), or whether you’re making a podcast (which is what I’m doing now) – just enjoy the moment.

Everyone should go back to the podcast where I interviewed Leo (from ZenHabits.net) and listen to that again, because it’s a good exercise in being content. And when you’re content, maybe that’s the key to retirement: You may not ever really care about retiring because you’re just living in the moment and enjoying where you are.

Whether you’re in debt and slowly getting out, or you’re out of debt and looking to invest more – whatever you’re finances are at the moment. You can just be content with where you are and happy with the direction you’re facing – but you’re not looking off to some distant day and not ignoring – missing- what’s going on all around you.

Some food for thought.

The House Has Got to Go – 2 Bedroom Apartment Here We Come

house

Opportunity Cost: The loss of potential gain from other alternatives when one alternative is chosen.

Confession: When I said I would seriously consider downsizing our home, I was only sort of telling the truth (so much for defeating denial). Yes, I’d evaluate the costs and benefits of downsizing, but there’s no way I’d really get rid of our house, I said to myself.

Maybe that’s still true – maybe there’s no way my wife and I would leave a home and neighborhood we love for the sake of accelerating our savings. But after a couple of hours with Excel, I can now say that staying in our home is purely emotional, because financially it makes no sense at all.

Check out this table:


Housing Alternative Savings 3 Yr Value 5 Yr Value 7 Yr Value 10 Yr Value
Rent Similar Home $310 $12,450.54 $22,323.26 $33,674.98 $53,969.29
Rent Townhome $710 $28,515.75 $51,127.47 $77,126.57 $123,607.07
Rent 2-bedroom Apartment $1,135 $45,585.03 $81,731.95 $123,293.89 $197,597.22

Notes:

  • ‘Savings’ estimates the difference in cost between our current home and the alternative, and includes estimates of the value of the mortgage tax credit, maintenance on the home, utilities, and HOA fees.
  • This table assumes a meager 7% return on the saved amount. If the money earned 10% per year, the 2-bedroom apartment would pay out nearly $235,000 in ten years. Yikes.
  • My wife may threaten divorce if I use this table to try to get her to move.

When I showed Jesse this table, he took it to another level: after ten years of renting, we could go right back to our current cost of living, let the $200k sit in the market for another ten years (when I’d be reaching my goal retirement age of 54), and have around $400,000 extra in savings. Four hundred grand (or $470,000 with a 10% interest rate on the savings).

Summing up: If I lived the next 10 years in a 2-bedroom apartment – investing the savings along the way, the end result could be an additional $16,000+ per year in retirement.

I don’t know what else to say about it. We love our home and our neighbors. We’ve planned to be where we are for a long time – maybe forever.

But these numbers aren’t unreasonable. It’s one thing to grasp the total cost of home ownership in the traditional sense (principal plus interest), but adding in the cost of lost savings is making the house feel really, really expensive.

 

What it Really Takes to Retire in 20 Years When You’re Starting from Zero

piggy bank

If you’re just arriving on the post, make sure you read the comments, where some of my assumptions are generously corrected.

On Friday I said I’d be evaluating all my major expenses, and decide whether to:

  • Downsize my house
  • Have no more children
  • Take my kids out of private school
  • Become a one-car family
  • Drop or reduce my health insurance
  • Drastically reduce grocery spending

As I started to research whether downsizing the house is a good idea, it occurred to me I’ve never established a long term financial goal, like, you know, retirement. Deciding whether to make major changes to my big expenses is only meaningful in terms of the impact on my long term goal – so that’s where I need to start.

Shocker: I Want to Be Debt Free with a Nice Nest Egg

My major goals are similar to yours:

1. Eliminate all debt (including home mortgage) by the time I’m 50 (16 years from now).

2. Draw $40,000 per year from my investments starting at age 54 (20 years from now).

Barring catastrophe, the debt elimination goal is on track. I’m already rolling a pretty good debt snowball, and as long as I don’t interrupt it, my home loan will be zero right around my 50th birthday.

By the way, if you have debt, and you’re not snowballing it, you need to start. The day you start snowballing – however modestly – your feelings about your debt will change. You’ll still feel annoyed and stressed by the balances, but you’ll shift immediately toward a sense of control and power. And…

Debt snowballing is addictive.

My current plan zeroes all debt in 16 years, but the momentum of a good snowball could easily knock that down by 3 to 5. Why? Because the more the snowball grows, the more excited you get about eliminating balances. The excitement drives more dollars toward the snowball, accelerating it.

If you’re YNABing, it’s all the more fun because every time you have extra money in a category, you can slide it right into your debt repayment. Double the emotional payoff and patting of self on the back.

So, that’s the debt freedom goal. I’m sure there will be ups and downs along the way, but as long as I’m living on a budget and working to improve my earning power, I’m confident the debts will go away on schedule.

I Have to Save How Much if I Want to Retire in 20 Years??

The retirement income, on the other hand, is a can of worms. This is my first real foray into the messy world of investing, inflation, and withdrawl rate in retirement.

Here are the assumptions I’m working with; feel free to jump in and correct any you consider way off base:

“Retirement” Date: 2033 (age 54)

By age 54 I’ll have no debt and no kids at home (right, parents over 55? Please don’t burst my bubble). My son will be 26, daughter 24, and if there are any more Butler kids on the way, he/she/they will be 18 (or close to it).

*I’ll put all their belongings in suitcases and on the front porch, then kick them out at 4am on their 18th birthday. In my head this is a scene played out between Cliff, Theo, and Vanessa Huxtable. I don’t know why.

Retirement Income Goal: $40,000 per year (in 2013 dollars)

Based on our current budget – with no kids and no debt – Kate and I would live fine on $40,000 per year (again, in today’s dollars). Not lavishly, but comfortably.

We may not even need the $40,000 when I’m 54 – I should be in my peak earning years. But assuming I’m completely fed up with all income-generating activities, $40,000 per year would do the job.

Trying to Predict the Stuff You Can’t Really Predict

  • Inflation: 3.25% per year (the historical average).
  • Number of years in retirement: 40 (assuming I make it to age 94. If I die earlier, the remainder can go to charity – or to build a shrine honoring John Elway’s Super Bowl wins).
  • Interest rate earned on investments during retirement: 4.25% (I really had no idea what to use here, and went with the default number on the calculator shown below).

So how big does my nest egg need to be, and how much do I need to be saving to get there?

The numbers I need to hit if I want to draw $40,000 per in 2013 dollars, starting in 2033, and lasting for 40 years. Retirement Withdrawal Calculator here.

The numbers I need to hit if I want to draw $40,000 per in 2013 dollars, starting in 2033, and lasting for 40 years. Retirement Withdrawal Calculator here.

Plugging my numbers into this calculator, it appears I need to have $2,500,000 earning 4.25% per year, with an average inflation rate of 3.25% per year – and all of that would allow me to start drawing $40,000 in 2013 dollars from age 54 on.

$40,000 per year in inflation-adjusted income, starting in 2033. (Only showing the first 15 years or so.)

$40,000 per year in inflation-adjusted income, starting in 2033. (Only showing the first 15 years or so.)

This is Where Things Get a Little Nuts

Betterment gives me about a 75% chance of reaching my savings goal on time...with a monthly deposit of over $5,000 per month??

Betterment gives me about a 75% chance of reaching my savings goal on time…with a monthly deposit of over $5,000 per month??

According to Betterment, if I want to have a (roughly) 75% chance of having $2,500,000 at age 54, I need to be saving around $5,000 per month.

Hm.

If I were making $250,000 per year, $5,000 per month would be reasonable. Unfortunately, I’m not. (It is worth mentioning that improving your earning power – once you’re solidly living on a budget – changes your retirement prospects in a major way.)

That’s One Heck of a Reality Check

So, why did I take you through all those goal calculations, when I’d obviously already found out they were unrealistic?

Because maybe you’re like me. Maybe you think $40,000 is a piddly retirement income – one that I could achieve by beginning to invest when I’m 45 or so. If you do think like me – oh how wrong we both are.

For example, dropping my annual income goal to $25,000 (2013 dollars), and extending my retirement age to 65 (giving me 31 years instead of 20 to prepare), changes my monthly savings requirement to $1,475 – a savings rate I could achieve within the next year or so.

$1,475 per month to reach a $1,900,000 nest egg by age 65. Much more feasible.

$1,475 per month to reach a $1,900,000 nest egg by age 65. Much more feasible.

Don’t Forget About the $729,000 Bonus I’ll Get at Age 65

Remember how all my debt will be gone when I’m 50? Taking the whole snowball and putting it into my investments for the fifteen years between age 50 and 65 will pad my nest egg with a tidy $729,000, bumping my retirement income from $25,000 to $34,000 per year. It pays to be debt free.

Sheesh – 1,000 words (and one John Elway reference) later, that’s my best guess at a retirement plan.

How’d I do?

Investing for the Rest of Us

I’ve gone through phases in the past few years, where I feel like becoming a professional investor that does a bunch of research, discovers trends before they’re trends, plays the options games, and makes money “in any market.”

And then I remember that I already have a full-time job, a family, and a garden to tend.

So I go back to my super-simple, a few-hours-per-year investment strategy.

A while back, I wrote a review of Betterment, my investment option of choice (above and beyond my company 401k contributions).  The comments on both the post, and our Facebook page, spurred me on to write a 10-day investment course to help people understand why they’re investing, what they’re investing in, and how to get started and stay the course.

It’s an investment course for YNABers.

If you’re interested in signing up for the free course, you can do that here.

 

An Old Dollar is Like Aged Wine (I Suppose)

I don’t drink alcohol, so my analogy may fall flat in many places.  But I hear people talking about how an older wine is better.  Pretty much every time, right?  People collect old bottles of wine to store, and never drink, right?

So I’m going to run with this analogy.

An older wine gives you more satisfaction than a newer wine.  Spending older dollars gives you more satisfaction than spending brand new dollars.  Maybe both are easier to swallow :)

The guy that received his paycheck last Friday, and hit the clubs Friday night…he was spending the money almost instantly.  That spending doesn’t taste very good.

However, the lady that sets aside $150 for Christmas, and ends up with $1,800 of ready cash, just waiting to create some Christmas joy (that’s another post, about joy and consumption, not to be delved into here), that spending will taste great!

I haven’t yet figured out how this analogy works with overspending on a credit card.  I guess it’s like you’re eating the grapes? You can’t even make the wine because you’re consuming them well before the process can even get started!

And then there’s the retired couple, that is spending dollars they’ve let “age” for 35 years.  That spending must feel so good.

If you follow Rule Four, you should, on average, be spending dollars that are about 30 days old.  Then add in your Rule Two funds where you’re giving dollars jobs where they won’t be used for several months, or even several years, and you’re spending starts to taste pretty good!  Vacationing with aged money. I like the sound of that.

Gravy Money (Side Money or Passive Income), and Why I Love It.

Gravy money is the money you earn, but on which you don’t rely–at all.

If your budget operates under the assumption that your quarterly bonus will definitely happen, and that the quarterly bonus will be used to pay off some credit card debt accumulated in anticipation of the bonus…that is not gravy money.

But if your quarterly bonuses are saved and used to purchase a rental property every three years. That’s gravy money. Gravy money should, most of the time, be used to create more gravy money.

With gravy money, you should never need it, but you should love making it.

In general, I prefer a stream of gravy money over a one-time shot.

In my opinion, gravy money should not be consumed, but should be used to purchase appreciable assets (real estate, alternative investments, starting a business, etc.). That is, of course, after you’re out of debt.

My First Gravy Money Stream

YNAB was my first stream of gravy money. At first, it was totally necessary, and helped us avoid going into debt while I finished school and Julie stayed home with our first (and second) child.

However, once I started my full-time job at an accounting firm, we no longer needed any YNAB money, and it all became gravy money.

We used that gravy money to purchase our first home much faster than we would have been able to otherwise. Thank goodness we hadn’t consumed it to bolster our lifestyle.

I ended up taking a job back in Utah, still afraid to use YNAB’s gravy money for supporting my family. That job lasted about four to five months, and then I realized YNAB could do the trick, and we started on that full-time I think toward the end of 2007.

New Gravy Money

With us now living on YNAB money for our livelihood, my conservative radar was beeping constantly. It didn’t take long before my desire for that gravy money led me to do some other internet-based work, where a friend and I would…basically flip websites. Buy them, make them perform better, and then sell them much-improved. (For those that care, we wouldn’t flip domains, we would flip actual websites.)

We were lucky with our timing, because within a few years, the field became fairly saturated. That gravy money, the buying and selling of websites, is what helped me and Julie pay off the house.

Having that second stream of something that’s (fairly) passive, can make all the difference.

Emergency Gravy Money

YNAB continued to grow, and I didn’t need to take as much out of it to live on, though our personal earnings were still all over the board. During 2009, we were investing so heavily in YNAB 3 that our personal financial situation deteriorated fairly rapidly. Our emergency fund was drained, and right before the launch of YNAB 3, I carried about $25,000 on a credit card.

I used the stream from the buying/selling of websites to keep us from going further into debt. If we didn’t have that gravy money (that quickly morphed into “we need this to stay afloat” money), we would’ve missed our YNAB 3 launch deadline by probably six months.

(A side lesson Iearned here is to never give a public launch date unless it’s something like, “We’re launching Tuesday!” because everything’s in place ready to go. Also, make sure Apple has approved your software before giving that type of public launch date.)

Gravy Money Dried Up, New Stuff Found

The buying/selling of websites kind of fizzled out, mainly because I wanted to focus more on YNAB, and my partner wanted to make some movies.

The lack of gravy money lasted about two months, before I partnered with a developer to begin developing some small iOS apps.

The developer didn’t end up lasting too long, but we launched about five related apps and they all-together, make a whopping $150 per month. (I ended up buying out the developer of his half to simplify things.)

What’s actually pretty intriguing about this small amount of gravy money, is how much I still enjoy it. Apple deposits the money monthly, into a bank account dedicated solely to these iOS apps. It climbs and climbs, ever so slowly, and I don’t give it a second thought. But I still love that it’s there.

More Gravy Money

About a year ago, my old business partner started buying/selling websites again. I didn’t have the time to invest in the nuts and bolts, but I decided to become a silent partner in the operation. That’s ended up providing some gravy money for us. It’s nothing we personally consume in our budget, so it just grows on the side, where I reinvest it there, or dedicate it toward another gravy money stream.

Even More Gravy Money

The stream I’ve been working on currently is with real estate. I am so far from a guru, it’s not even funny, but I’ve felt like there have been some buying opportunities, so about eight months ago I jumped on a short-sale opportunity and purchased our first rental property. I’m extremely conservative in my forecasting, but based on my analysis, the property should cash flow, provide reasonable equity appreciation, and provide a nice tax benefit from the depreciation.

I’ve set up a separate LLC (for liability reasons, nothing else), and bank account. The property manager sends me an accounting each month of any costs, their management fee, and the remaining proceeds land in the account. My plan is to obviously carry a buffer of 3-6 months’ rent, reserve 10% of rent specifically for eventual repairs, and anything above and beyond that high-water mark will be used to accelerate the mortgage paydown.

(A note on carrying a mortgage on the rental property: Dave Ramsey, a guy whose advice I like a lot—I mean, come on, he’s yelling at people all the time to get on a budget!—says that once you’ve paid of your personal residence, you shouldn’t borrow money ever again, even for another house. I’ve never quite understood the logic of this. It seems to me that if it’s too risky to carry a mortgage on a single rental home, then that’s the end of it, and you shouldn’t borrow money for your personal residence either. But this is just a tangent at this point. The fact of the matter is that I evaluated the risk of carrying a mortgage, recognize that we could handle the payment if we couldn’t find tenants for a really long time, and went for it.)

The Amount of Gravy Money Seems to be Irrelevant

I find myself excited at the prospect of fairly small amounts of gravy money each month. I get excited when I see a dividend be paid–even if it’s just a few dollars. I’m excited about a few hundred dollars of positive cash flow from the rental property, and I love seeing one of our website investments earn some commissions.

The size of the gravy money really does appear to be second to the fact that it exists in the first place!

Dual Incomes: Could One Be Gravy Money?

After interviewing many new YNABers in depth, I realized how big of an expense day care is to a lot of families. The search along those lines led me to a book called The Two Income Trap: Why Middle-Class Parents Are Going Broke, and one takeaway I have from that book is that the second income from a spouse used to be gravy, but doesn’t have that designation any longer.

If you have a 3-6 month emergency fund, then when a financial disaster strikes, you’re ready for it. But if you’re dealing with a longer bout of financial strain (job loss, disability), having a gravy money stream could mean all the difference.

Would it be possible for you to consider your spouse’s income as gravy money? Could you two reasonably pretend that the money simply does not exist? Possible? Totally impossible? I’m not even certain, but want to at least plant the idea of you having some money that is not ever needed, which can be used to produce more of its own kind.

Your Business as Gravy Money (to the extent possible)

There are so many “business skills” I don’t possess, but I feel I’ve cornered the market on one, and that is keeping my business separate from my personal finances. Julie used to be confused by statements like, “Man, the business is rocking it this month!” followed shortly thereafter by, “Our restaurant category is depleted, so let’s stay home to eat.”

Those kinds of apparently contradictory statements no longer confuse her :)

The ability to separate the money that’s for consumption, and the money that can be used to create more money, is invaluable.

I’ll give you two examples:

1. I imagine that I’ll eventually sell the business. At least, that seems logical. I’m not banking on the sale of the business, so any proceeds from that hypothetical sale are seen as very distinct from our retirement savings, where we contribute to a 401k and our Betterment account. In other words, the sale of YNAB would be gravy, not something I’m relying on in order to be able to retire.

2. Since I now budget the business money, it’s very easy for me to be motivated to not take any personal distributions. Why? Because if I take money out of the business for personal reasons, I’m eating the seed corn. I’d rather keep it in the business and be able to hire another developer, try a new marketing channel, or maybe just make our company meetup awesome.

Conclusion

In the end, I just want to get you thinking about what could be your gravy money. A portion of your spouse’s paycheck? Some overtime you pick up on a fairly regular basis? Those quarterly bonus checks? Your tax refund?

If it’s gravy money, that means you won’t ever need it, except to purchase appreciating assets (if you’re still paying down your debts, I’d use extra money for that).

You want gravy money to create more of its own kind. Don’t consume it! Plant it and watch it grow!

Post a comment below on what you could use for some gravy money, and how you’d use it to help it grow.

Betterment Review (I’m a Huge Fan)

I’m not a financial advisor, but I’ve studied investing for a while and recognize that it can be a fairly complex issue. Investing comes across as so complex, that people end up not investing at all.

As I see it, there are three primary reasons people aren’t building a sufficiently-sized retirement nest egg:

  1. They don’t invest (enough).
  2. They don’t diversify their investment.
  3. They don’t allocate their investment appropriately for their specific situation.

Are You Investing (Enough)?

To those of you that are not investing at all, you need to start. Please.

Those of you that are investing, if you’re doing average, need to contribute a lot more, as soon as possible.

The average baby boomer (people between the age of 49 and 66) has a retirement savings of $88,000. If they don’t have a qualified retirement plan, their average retirement savings is $38,000.

People, we need to step to it!

Betterment makes starting and accelerating very easy. This is one of the reasons I really, really like their service.

Are You Properly Diversified?

I don’t want to get into all the ins and outs of diversification. Just follow the old adage, and don’t put all your eggs in one basket.

In Monopoly, would you rather own Boardwalk and Park Place completely, or own a percentage of every other property on the board? No matter what happened, you’d make some money. Instead of having really big peaks and valleys, you’d have much more even, steady growth.

That’s diversification. The SEC.gov website puts it nicely:

By picking the right group of investments, you may be able to limit your losses and reduce the fluctuations of investment returns without sacrificing too much potential gain.

Betterment makes diversification easy. Even if you don’t understand every in and out of diversifying, you can rest assured that they do. They diversify in a very simple, transparent way. More on that later.

Are You Properly Allocated?

Asset allocation, simply stated, is…um…how your assets are allocated. What are assets? Things with value. Different assets behave very differently. Let’s discuss a few briefly:

  • Cash. We all get this one. The more you have, the better. Cash can be stored in a checking or savings account, where it’s virtually risk-free. What’s the risk of your cash losing its value? Essentially zero. (Let’s avoid inflation, and please avoid hyperinflation discussions here… maybe we’ll get into that in another post.) Does your cash earn a lot more cash? No, because you’re not subjecting it to any risk.
  • Stocks. Some of you get this. Others don’t. When you purchase a stock, you become an owner in a company.  If you wake up the next morning, will your stock still have the same value? No. It will go up. It will go down. You don’t know. Stocks are subject to risk, so their potential return is higher.
  • Bonds. This is where you give a company or government your money, and they promise to pay you back. You’re a lender, they’re a borrower. Is your money at risk? Absolutely. Some bonds are riskier than others. US Treasuries are seen as riskless, so their return is low. Junk bonds are seen as risky, so their potential returns are higher.

So regarding asset allocation, would you want to be 100% in cash? Well, probably not, because your return would be really, really low. 100% in stocks? Maybe not, because your risk would be too high. 100% in bonds? No…because your return might still be too low. But what about a mix of all three?

That’s where it gets interesting. And that’s asset allocation.

If you need your money tomorrow, you should be in cash, right? Zero upside, zero downside, and that’s great because you need it for groceries in the morning.

If you need your money in five years? You’re okay with a bit of risk, because you don’t need it for groceries in the morning, but are you okay with it being 100% in stocks? I don’t think so. Too risky. We’ve seen that stocks can be flat, or down, for years. So maybe you’d mix it up and lean more toward a conservative bond set, and some stocks to still catch potential upside.

What if you need the money in 20 years? Let’s take some risk! Over the long haul, stocks have proven to be fantastic investments. With 20 years to go, you can ride out the downs and hope for a larger return than you would have gotten in cash, or bonds.

Whew. So much for making the asset allocation explanation short.

Betterment does the asset allocation bit automatically based on your time horizon. They let you explore different scenarios (based on solid historical data, which is not an indicator of future results, but at least a starting point), adjust your horizon, and even set different goals at different time horizons.

For example, your daughter will be getting married in 20 years. Yes, I know I’ve mentioned this a lot in the podcast. Because it terrifies me.  I could set a target date in the future for when I would allow my daughter to be married, and Betterment would rebalance my porftolio as I approached that target date.

Being 20 years out, we’d invest the funds aggressively. With five years to go, the funds would be invested more conservatively. And of course, six months before the wedding the funds would be in cash. And then the funds would be consumed with vigor until only dollar dust remained.

Conclusion #1

If you’re intrigued by how Betterment solves the starting, accelerating, diversifying and allocating problems associated with investing, but don’t care to see all of the details in my account setup, and associated thought processes, then you can stop here and go check out Betterment yourself.

If you want to get into the nitty-bo-bitty-gritty, please read on.

My Betterment Experience, in Extreme Detail Because I Know No Other Way

I’ll walk you through the sign-up process, highlighting what I love about their interface, especially the clarity of fees, and performance. We’ll cover some under-the-cover stuff re: what they’re investing in, talk about some Betterment alternatives (of which there is no shortage) and then (finally) offer some final thoughts.

The Sign-Up Process

We start with the basics. Name, email, choose a password. I found it surprising that they don’t ask you to confirm your password :)

Standard address and security questions for password recovery.

They need to know your Date of Birth, as any broker would. I’m not certain why they need to know my employment status (happily), annual income and/or net worth. Probably just to better understand their customers (same reason I survey YNABers every few years and ask the same questions). Plus, this gives you an opportunity to brag! ;)

You select the account type, which is where you can set up an IRA (traditional or Roth), or just do a normal investment account. I went the normal route because I already have IRAs set up with Vanguard (Betterment will roll IRAs over, but I doubt I’ll go through the hassle unless I really get the itch to consolidate accounts. I do love simplifying.)

You’ll notice that they have you set up your first goal here. As mentioned above in Part I, Betterment is goal-oriented.  I set up my first goal to retire in five years. Hey, one can dream.

Then we get to the funding details, where we specify which account we’ll use to fund our Betterment investment account:

Favorite part of that is the helpful, plain-language explanation that doesn’t leave you guessing at all as to what’s happening.  And for you high rollers, sorry, but the maximum funding amount at one time is $100,000 USD.

Once the funding section is complete, you get some required-by-the-SEC questions:

And then we’re done!

One thing I like about Betterment is their attention to design. It’s friendly. That won’t help your investments grow any faster, but…it may subconsciously help you feel that investing isn’t as hard as you thought ;)

You’re left with a few steps you can do at your leisure: 1) confirm your email address, and confirm the bank account you’ll use for funding. This is pretty standard stuff if you’ve ever signed up with any other brokerage, online savings account, or Paypal.

Setting Up My First Betterment Goal

I already had the framework of my goal in place, but Betterment needed some more details. As soon as I logged in, I was presented with this:

You’ll notice how I had said that my goal was to retire in five years, right? Since Betterment does our asset allocation based on our goal’s timeline, you can see that it picked a 58% stock market mix—enough to still earn some returns, but not enough that in five years I’ll be wanting to see my principal, and we’ll be in a down year (or five years).

With Betterment knowing my timeline, they still need to know the amount I want to have when I retire. I decided to go with the plain-vanilla million bucks:

I also got to customize my goal a bit:

So Betterment then does some number crunching in their back room, and calculates (based on historical performance, and my given asset allocation of 58% stocks, and the rest in bonds) that I’ll need to save $14,246.45 per month if I’d like to hit my target.

Hrm, a little steep.

So I mess with the slider. Okay…I want to retire when I’m really old.  40.

Much better. I guess ;)

Isn’t the underlying calculation cool though? Even if it is a wee bit unrealistic? Betterment has us focused on the one thing that we can control — What we put in.  I know you can’t put in as much as you want, as you’re restricted by life’s other obligations, but this at least gets you focused on the number you can influence over the long run: your investing efforts.  I really like that the focus is here, and not on the return side of the equation.

Once I accept my changes, I’m ready to implement my savings plan:

That $6k is pre-filled in, and I set it to hit monthly (I adjusted this later to my actual amount, which unfortunately is well below the $6k mark).

With the automatic deposit set, notice how well the text explains what will happen:

I signed up on September 10.  Deposits for account verification hit on September 12, so I logged back in and confirmed the account:

I dug through the couch cushions and found $800 in quarters, so once my account was confirmed, I initiated a transfer to see what would happen:

Again, clear text that manages my expectations on what will happen, and doesn’t leave me fretting:

It would be nice if the transfer were faster, but honestly, we are in it for the long haul. And this prevents you from taking a sip from the highly addictive Fountain of Market Timing. So maybe it’s a good thing.  Major bonus points when I hovered over a question mark to find out more about making a deposit:

I began the transfer on September 13th, and received notice that it was deposited into my Betterment account on September 18th:

Fee & Performance Clarity with Betterment

My absolute favorite part of the whole system has to do with the main dashboard:

My goal, conveniently named ‘Retire at 36′ still needs some work. But notice the first-grade math you need to do in order to understand how your investment is doing:

  • What you’ve invested, and
  • What you’ve earned.

When you expand those, it gets even better:

Okay, this isn’t that exciting since I took these screenshots before my $800 deposit landed, but still…this is fantastic clarity.  Your fees are right there, in one place.

Betterment Fees

The cost of an investment is one of the most significant drivers of your investment results, so it cannot be ignored.

Betterment’s fees are extremely straightforward, and have actually come down significantly from when I originally talked with them a year or two ago.  Their fees, beforehand, were the sole reason I didn’t recommend them to YNABers earlier. Now that they’re extremely competitive, well, here’s my recommendation.

So let’s get to it.

Betterment – No transaction fee. .35% if you deposit $100 per month with no minimum balance requirement. If your balance is at least $10,000 then you don’t need to do an automatic deposit and your fee is .25%. If you’re a high roller with a minimum balance of $100,000 or more, it’s .15%.

So somebody with $8,000 invested, and $100/month deposited would pay $28 per year.  Their pricing table actually makes this clearer than me writing it out :)

Scottrade – $7 per trade. If you’re investing small amounts, say $100 per transaction, then you’re automatically getting a 7% hit to your investment performance.  Pretty much investing suicide at that point.  Scottrade also has a $500 minimum. I’ve used them for years (just closed my account with them last week, and dumped it into Betterment) and really like their service and site. I just like the simplicity of Betterment more. Plus Scottrade made it too tempting to purchase individual stocks :)

Wells Fargo – I have a PMA package with Wells Fargo. I bank almost completely with them — both business and personal.  And it’s a love-hate relationship. I love that it’s all in one place, and I hate that Wells Fargo is a massive bank that doesn’t care one iota about me and my tiny problems.  At any rate, because I’m a PMA customer of their’s, I get 100 free trades per year with their brokerage arm.  There are “potential account maintenance fees” but I think those are waived for me as well.  For the *ahem* little guy, they charge $9 per trade and $35 for no-load mutual funds!  Also, the account maintenance fees really annoyed me. Either get me coming, or get me hanging around, but don’t get me both ways.

Honestly, I should use Wells Fargo, but I just don’t want to because of that PMA status. But I’m not.  The main reason has to do with automatic asset allocation (which you can read all about way down below).

E-Trade is also very popular. I haven’t used them personally but their pricing page was like reading a Tale of Two Cities.  The short of it: $10 per trade, or $8 if you trade over 50 times per month! Please don’t trade that often :) Based on that pricing, I don’t see a reason to use E-Trade over Scottrade.

Sharebuilder is owned by ING, which is owned by CapitalOne, which is why I don’t really recommend ING anymore :(  (I’ve been doing some research into some other online banks, because I used to recommend ING a lot, and it’s promising.  I’ll write more on that later.)  Sharebuilder has great pricing where it’s $4 for stocks and ETFS, and $0 if you auto-invest with certain fund families. I’m not a fan of the restriction on fund families, but that’s not the end of the world. If you don’t do auto-investing, it’s $20 per mutual fund transaction, which is pretty steep.

Vanguard is the leader in low-cost investment options. I like them a LOT, but wish they were less intimidating for new users.  Their pricing is fairly complex, where, based on how much you have invested with them in total, the fees can change substantially. Also, please elect to go paperless if you want to avoid their annual $20 fee. (You should go paperless anyway, people! :))  If you want to recreate what Betterment gets you, it would be $7 per trade with Vanguard.  Again, a per-trade fee would not be ideal if you’re doing low-dollar amounts.

Betterment’s Portfolio

Betterment doesn’t put their portfolio out there to find very easily, but I also didn’t look terribly hard. The Google gave me the following breakdown (the ticker is in parentheses):

Stocks

  • 25% Vanguard Total Stock Market (VTI)
  • 25% iShares S&P 500 Value (IVE)
  • 25% Vanguard Europe Pacific (VEA)
  • 10% Vanguard Emerging Markets (VWO)
  • 8% iShares Russell Midcap Value (IWS)
  • 7% iShares Russell 2000 Value (IWN)

Bonds

  • 50% iShares Barclays TIPS Bond ETF (TIP)
  • 50% iShares Lehman 1-3 Year Treasury Bond ETF (SHY)

Don’t worry too much about digging into the why behind the breakdown. I just want you to see that 1) there’s a very good mix of investments, spread across the globe, and that 2) these investment choices are fairly inexpensive (ETFs, as a rule are).

A quick note on ETFs, they are indexed to a basket of stocks, but trade like a single stock. So when I buy a share of the iShares S&P 500 Value, I’m buying teeny tiny slices of stock of every “Value” company on the S&P 500. What’s that mean? Don’t worry about it. Just know that when you buy an ETF, it’s like a stock of a bunch of pieces of stock.  It’s extremely liquid, and very cheap.

This portfolio handles the problem of investment diversification in one fell swoop. Yes, you can diversify on your own, and yes, that’s more difficult and time-consuming (but I’ll show you how later).

Asset Allocation

The allocation with Betterment was discussed at length above. The gist of it is that as you approach your target goal, your fund is invested more conservatively: less in stocks, more in bonds.  The mix would be fairly easy to alter with some quick spreadsheet work (which we’ll do below).

As a quick example, if I was invested 50/50 in Stocks and Bonds, based on the Betterment portfolio, I would own 12.5% in VTI…12.5% in IVE..and on down to 3.5% in IWN. In the bonds, I’d own 25% TIP, and 25% SHY.  I just multiplied 50% against the weight of each ETF in the allocation.

There are Fees, and then Fees…

Now, when you invest in ETFs, you do pay a fee. As mentioned above, they’re very reasonable. Cheaper than most mutual funds by a long shot.  So in that Betterment screenshot where it was showing Market Changes, your fee is taken from that. You won’t see it outright, but the value of your investment is basically reduced by the fee amount.  Fees are expressed annually when you look them up online.

For instance, the Vanguard Total Stock Market Index ETF (VTI) is .06%.  If you invest $100 in VTI, you’ll pay six cents.

So when you’re determining your investment options, and maybe considering Betterment, you’ll want to be aware of the entire fee structure, which consists of the ETF fees and the Betterment fees.  Bear in mind, those ETF fees are had no matter where you trade (Scottrade, E-Trade, any other brokerage, etc.)

I took the portfolio weights of the Betterment Portfolio, and multiplied them by each ETFs respective fee. The result was that, all-in, the Betterment Portfolio has an “embedded cost” of .158%.  If you invest $100 at Betterment, almost 16 cents will go toward the ETF fees and then, based on your balance (discussed above), you’ll pay another 15 to 35 cents annually, directly to Betterment.

I’m a Cheapskate so…How Could I Do This for Free?

I definitely thought of this.  Though I wouldn’t necessarily call myself a cheapskate ;)  Let’s recognize value here, and see if Betterment’s value proposition makes it worth the extra .15-.35% you’ll pay.

Our three hangups with investing are:

  1. Starting, or increasing.
  2. Diversifying.
  3. Allocating.

On starting, or ramping things up, the starting part is definitely easier with Betterment, but the easier UI certainly isn’t the value proposition here. You can set up any brokerage to do automatic withdrawals. So we’re going to call that a wash.

Second, any cheapskate would simply copy Betterment’s portfolio, so the diversification “service” is had for free. Jon Stein, the CEO, and a Certified Financial Analyst (and a nice guy as well), has done the legwork for you cheapskates!  Just copy him!

Diversification, done.

On the asset allocation, this is where Betterment really starts to deliver value. Now, before you say, “I can just reallocate myself!” Know that talk is cheap. People’s heads are filled with the best of intentions (“This year, I’m not going to EVER eat out!”) that don’t make it past Tuesday.  So regardless of what you say you do, 80% of you won’t do it, and you’ll end up with a portfolio that isn’t balanced appropriately for your time horizon.

This can be solved a few ways:

  • Use Betterment (my choice)
  • Invest in cheap target date funds, (An inexpensive example would be Vanguard’s) (that is not investment advice, it’s jus tan example of target date funds).  Those are titled in fancy ways like “Target Retirement 2025″ and they will rebalance appropriately as you approach that year.  Drawbacks: they’re only in five-year increments, and many of the target date options out there are more expensive, and actively managed (I’m a fan of passive investing).
  • Handle the asset allocation yourself.

So let’s talk about the steps required to do it yourself.  You would do these steps every time you purchased more assets, or at least quarterly.

  1. Know your target asset allocation. What mix should be stocks and bonds? When in doubt, use Betterment’s tools to figure out what they do, and just copy them.
  2. Record your current fund balances across all holdings.
  3. Calculate your current allocation, based on the holdings.
  4. Enter the additional amount you’re investing (if any).
  5. Apply the (new) balance to the target allocation from [1].
  6. Compare the difference in the allocation of each fund [5] to the current fund balances [2].
  7. Buy and sell funds as needed, to re-balance (this step could take you a bit, don’t underestimate it… it’s a tedious nightmare. Trust me, this is coming from a guy that rebalanced his Solo 401k for two years, with each paycheck.)

You’d go through those seven steps every single time you’d invest new money, if you wanted to do it as well as Betterment.

I decided to make a spreadsheet to mimic the Betterment portfolio.  Feel free to use that if you’re keen on rebalancing yourself.

Some of you probably caught on to the problem that’s apparent with rebalancing. You can’t purchase fractional shares. In my spreadsheet example, you’ll see that I should Buy $1,161 of VWO. Well, what if VWO’s price is $32 per share? That means I would need to purchase 36.28 shares. You can’t do that. So you’d round down to 36 shares, leaving you with remaining funds of $10.08. Not the end of the world, by any means, but annoying if you’re a bit OCD like yours truly.  Betterment allows you to purchase fractional shares, so that problem goes away (I’m not certain on the purchasing of fractional mutual fund shares, such as the Target Date funds..if someone knows, please let me know!).

So…asset allocation done. Just an hour later! :)

Conclusion #2, and Automation

If you know YNAB at all, then you know we aren’t huge fans of automating your money so much that you don’t stay involved.  With investing, the opposite approach is the appropriate one. I want you automating the heck out of it. I want it out of sight, out of mind. I want you to make the decision once to invest, and then just focus on bringing home lots of bacon!

The impact you’ll have on your retirement nest egg if you can throw a lot of money at it, while it’s well-diversified and appropriately allocated, is massive.

In the end, what I’m saying is this. If you want something drop. dead. simple, I recommend Betterment. If you want something that won’t confuse or intimidate you, I recommend Betterment. If you want to (pretend to) rebalance your portfolio, and diversify on your own, then I wish you the best of luck.

The key is this: You are not, nor will you ever be, a professional investor. You didn’t build your own home, or build your own car, because you found it economical to pay someone to have the skills necessary to do it for you.  Betterment is that tool for me. It takes the mystery out of investing, keeps things simple and transparent, and saves me a lot of cognitive overhead.

Try ‘em out if you’re so inclined.

P.S. If you have built your own car or home, you are awesome, and my idol.

Affiliation Disclaimer: If you click on any of the above Betterment links AND sign up, YNAB earns a referral fee. I only recommend products I actually use, and feel great recommending this one. If you DON'T want YNAB to earn a referral fee, you can use this link.

Life Insurance Movement

If there’s anything in the personal finance world as overlooked as a budget, it’s life insurance. Most of us understand the purpose of planning ahead and setting money aside for the unexpected. Unfortunately, we rarely go the extra step and think about how we won’t be around forever. Though it’s a grim thought, the best thing to do is make sure your family and loved ones are taken care of if you’re not around. That means educating yourself on life insurance, and deciding what’s best for you (it’s probably term *cough*).

Don’t know where to start? Check out my friend, Jeff Rose, (a financial advisor and all-around great guy) at GoodFinancialCents.com as he launches his Life Insurance Movement on Wednesday, August 22nd. You’ll find scads of information, links to helpful articles, and steps to choosing the best life insurance plan for you and your family.

Build awareness, make a plan, and gain peace of mind.

I’ll be contributing my own life insurance article on the 22nd to help the movement along.  Keep your eyes peeled!

Writing Your Future Self a Letter of Intent

I was working on a new project (it’s going to be great, and will facilitate group/class situations with YNAB in a very powerful way) and came to the realization that every decision you make now affects the future.

Well, duh.

Okay that was part of it.

The other part was me browsing on the app store and seeing an app that would age you. You take a photo of yourself, then say that you want to see yourself 35 years from now (I’d be 66). Laughter ensues of course.

Unless the old person staring back at you is scowling. Or glaring. Or man, what if they’re crying?

It was a trifecta of circumstances I guess, because the third idea rattling around in my brain had to do with an HBO special on Obesity (you can watch it free online). About halfway through the second hour they talk about how once you’re obese, if you lose the weight, you’ll always have to eat less than a person of equivalent weight that was never heavy.

So we’re talking about an irreversible situation based on a collection of choices you made in the past.

Seeing a picture of myself a few weeks ago at Harrison’s party, undergoing a strenuous hike on Saturday (where I was seriously sucking wind), and watching that “Weight of the Nation” HBO documentary has made me more aware of the choices I’m making now, and how they’ll affect that 66-year old man staring back at me. Hopefully giving me the thumbs up.

You Should Write a Letter to Future You. And Sign It.

Obviously this isn’t a fitness blog, though I sometimes wish it were :)

But think about what you’re doing with your money, and how that’s going to affect Future You. Could you write a letter to your 30-years-older self and explain your strategy? Explain how what you’re doing now is going to set Future You up for a life that will hopefully be healthy, fulfilling, and debt free? One where you’ll be able to afford the things you love? One where you’ll have enough to visit the grandkids, maybe travel a bit, and finally finish restoring that classic car?

Mine might look something like this:

Hey Jesse+30 years,

First off, you look good. Julie is as lucky to have you now as she was 30 years ago.

With that out of the way, let’s get down to business. As far as I know, we have five kids. If there are tons more that you know about, that I don’t at the time of this writing… then man, I don’t know what I was thinking. At the moment, I sure feel like five is enough.

Kids’ School

With five kids, college funding is a big question mark. In my heart of hearts I’m hoping for the upheaval of the higher education system by scrappy upstarts that push online education to the forefront. As blogs did to newspapers, I’m kind of hoping the internet will do to crazy-sky-high tuition rates.

But, since we can’t bank on that, I want you to know that I’m working hard with the kids and we’re making their education a top-priority. Scholarships will have to happen in order for all of them to get their degrees. I’ve also been setting some money each year in a 529 plan. It probably won’t be enough, but it will certainly help.

Hey, since Rose should now be 30, if she’s still in school, we have a problem. She’s the baby of the family but man, you gotta cut her off.

Housing

The house is paid for, and all the kids are gone. My plan is for you to downsize, brother. Part of that house is retirement income so let it go and get something smaller that’s cheaper to heat and cool. If you now have a mortgage, then I’m extremely ticked off right now. Because I worked my tail off so you wouldn’t have a mortgage. I’m sure you don’t. You’re a sharp guy. So yeah, downsize and free up some of that equity.

Health Care

I’m going to start an HSA here very soon and will put money in that every year. We will not pull from that account. I’m going to let it grow tax-free, so you can pull from it tax-free and use it for who knows what. Hopefully it’s something awesome like replacing the bones in your legs with adamantium. I’m sure that’s possible by now.

I know this isn’t money-related, but I’m also going to try really hard to keep exercise a part of my everyday routine. Hopefully at the time of this letter you can bust out 30 pullups at the drop of a hat, deadlift 2x your bodyweight, and nail a few muscleups. This stuff’s important because Julie’s impressed by it.

Just Livin’

I’m doing my best not to leave you in the lurch, cash-flow wise. We both know how much Julie spends (I kid Julie+30 years, I kid!).

I want you to be able to visit the grandkids, travel a little bit, serve in the community, etc. I don’t want you to have to work if you don’t want to. But I do want you to stay involved and busy. Anxiously engaged. That type of thing.

So as far as cash flow goes to fund your modest lifestyle (which includes golf and an awesome gun collection), we’re maxing out our 401k. The business also does a match. Hey, what version of YNAB are you on now? We’re on 3 here. Is the business still doing fine?

I’ve invested the funds in a target-date fund for 2045. So at this point, it should be fairly conservative. Lots in bonds, not too much exposure in stocks, etc. My mentality for these next 30 years will be to invest and forget about it.

Hey, should I buy a share or two of Facebook?

Warm Regards,

Jesse-30 years.

P.S. Are you still driving the 2002 Honda Civic?

Remember that person 30 years from now. Are you doing your best to give them the best life possible? Or are you throwing them under the proverbial bus?

It’s a tough thing, to think about the future when everything around us tries to get us to think about the Now, or the next five minutes.  Operating with Rule One, where you have some priorities outlined for the 30-years-older version of yourself, might give you just the clarity you need, to cut through the Now Pressure and set yourself up for the future.

38 Questions to Determine if You’re a Millionaire, or Headed in the Right Direction

I pulled these questions mainly from looking at the median activity of millionaires based on Thomas Stanley’s The Millionaire Next Door, The Millionaire Mind, and Stop Acting Rich.

This list is meant to get your introspective gears turning. All generalizations are false.

  1. Do you live well below your means?
  2. Do build your wealth by spending your time, energy, and money efficiently?
  3. Do you care very little about social status?
  4. Have you received no financial help from your parents?
  5. Do your adult children pay their own way (popular ways to help, but still prohibited: down-payment for a home, and private schooling)?
  6. Are you married?
  7. Just once?
  8. Do you own your own business?
  9. Do you spend less than 7% of your wealth each year to live?
  10. Is your net worth about six and a half times the average net worth of your neighbors?
  11. Do you work 45 to 55 hours per week?
  12. Do you save and invest about 20% of your annual income?
  13. If you wear a watch, is it a Timex or Seiko?
  14. If you’re wearing a Rolex, was it a gift?
  15. Have you purchased two or less vehicles in the past 10 years?
  16. Are those vehicles Fords, or Toyotas?
  17. Ladies, was your last haircut about $45?
  18. Men, was your last haircut about $16?
  19. Are you happy?
  20. Do you own a home?
  21. Is your home’s value less than 10% of your net worth?
  22. Have you lived in the same house for more than twenty years?
  23. Are you college-educated?
  24. Were your parents still married before you turned 18?
  25. Was your mother’s primary role as a homemaker?
  26. Was your father a blue-collar worker, or a business-owner/self-employed?
  27. Is a typical meal at your most-frequented restaurant about $20?
  28. Do you give at least 5% of your income to charitable causes?
  29. Have you never paid more than $41,000 for a vehicle?
  30. Do you have little to no debt (including the mortgage)?
  31. Do you feel balanced between work, family, socializing, and your community or church?
  32. Do you spend time planning investments and consulting with a tax advisor?
  33. Do you maintain a budget?
  34. Do you have integrity?
  35. Do you possess high levels of self-discipline?
  36. Do you get along well with all types of people?
  37. Is your spouse supportive?
  38. Do you work harder than most people?

I’d focus on the questions over which you have control, and not agonize over the rest!