How to Set Savings Goals Mindfully

wallet

YNAB makes it easy to set and achieve savings goals. I find the tough part is knowing exactly what I want to save for.

Sometimes it’s as simple as putting two goal categories in your budget, and having them compete for new dollars as they become available.

But I have tons of goals, real needs, and passing fancies floating around in my head at any given time, and I want to be more purposeful about how I save, and for what.

I’m starting a Wants List – a spreadsheet – with the following columns:

  • Goal
  • Estimated Price/Cost
  • Easy to Buy Used?
  • Frequency of Use
  • Is it Awesome?
  • Key Features
  • Contenders
  • Reviews

There are no hard and fast rules about how to use the Wants List – the point is simply to capture your goals and fully consider their value relative to each other. Here’s how I’ll use the columns:

Estimated Price/Cost will be (obviously) be a range from low to high.

Easy to Buy Used? forces me to research the possibility of buying the thing from a person else instead of a retailer. It’s not something I’m used to, but the merits are obvious.

Frequency of Use lets me consider how often I’ll use (and benefit from) the goal, and may lead me to a) scrap the goal altogether or b) realize that, while awesome, it makes more sense to rent the item (I’m looking at you, offroad toys).

Is it Awesome? is a continuum that runs between “No big deal” and “Gray matter all over the walls” (because the awesomeness made your brain explode). Is it Awesome? should be a source of lively discussion and debate between interested parties.

Key Features will be an evolving list. As I shop and read reviews, I’ll get a better sense of which features matter, and which perks are worth the increased cost.

Contenders is the running list of makes and models that could satisfy the goal.

Links to Reviews will be a library of good advice on the purchase, also helping me discover questions I didn’t know I should be asking about the product/experience.

The Wants List is a home for any goal that requires you to save up or prepare in advance – whether it’s a new TV, a vacation, or the goal to quit your job and become self-employed.

 

 

Ignoring Your Single Largest Expense is Folly

I’m a recovering CPA.

So I don’t legally “know” what I’m talking about, but I can still remember a bit from when I did. And since this is my least-favorite season of the entire year, it’s also going to become a Savings Tip topic (and the focus of a free course launch I’m working on, see below for details).

You’re Trained to be Focused on the Completely Wrong Thing

The impetus of this post actually happened this morning on the treadmill. There was a commercial for Intuit’s TurboTax…how it guides you through your taxes and then they showed this really fancy image with a guarantee seal. On Inuit’s website you’ll see this front and center.

I don’t want to just single out Intuit. Not at all actually. TaxACT.com’s front page does the same thing.

Intuit’s fine print reads as follows:

If you get a larger refund or smaller tax due from another tax preparation method, we’ll refund the applicable TurboTax federal and/or state purchase price paid. TurboTax Federal Free Edition customers are entitled to a payment of $14.95 and a refund of your state purchase price paid.

Fair enough.

TaxACT’s fine print re: their guarantee sheds a bit more light on the problem:

If you get a larger refund or smaller tax due from another tax preparation method with the same data, we will refund the applicable product price you paid for your TaxACT Deluxe federal return.

Emphasis mine.

I won’t even go into H&R Block’s “Instant Refund Anticipation Loans.” Nasty — and a whole other story.

The focus is on that carrot dangling out in front of you. Your own money that you paid to the government in anticipation of your tax liability — your tax refund.

Even Trained Accountants Get it Wrong and Fall For the…Indoctrination :)

Back when I worked for a large accounting firm (don’t get the idea that I have tons of experience doing that — I lasted 10 LONG months), I remember sitting around the table in the cafeteria of our client. It was tax season and I was probably complaining about this very thing. One of my colleagues — a CPA said something along the lines of:

Oh, I didn’t pay any taxes this year. I got a refund.

I about lost my lunch.

If that same concept can happen to someone who passed the Reg section of the CPA exam, it certainly happens to your average Joe the…Piano Tuner.

What was the problem with my colleague’s statement? Even if they had just slipped up and really meant to say that they didn’t need to pay any additional taxes for the year…it was still alarming.

Just to be 100% clear.

1) You earn money.
2) You pay income taxes that are either withheld from your paycheck automatically (so you’re not as aware of the expense, removing you psychologically from it and encouraging just the problem we’re discussing here — a HUGE lack of awareness) or you’re required to file quarterly estimates.
3) By April 15 of each year, you calculate what you actually owe and either pay more (because your estimates weren’t enough) or you’re paid a refund (because you paid too much).

Unless you literally did not have a tax liability that year, you paid taxes. You may not have a tax liability if:

1) You’re dead or,
2) You earned only a small amount of income.
3) You have tons and tons of kids :)

I’m grossly simplifying with the above three points.

So know this: you very likely pay taxes every single year.

And I’m not even talking about the FICA (Social Security & Medicare) taxes that you can’t avoid (re: minimize) much at all if you’re a wage worker. Even if you did fall into #2 or #3 above, you still paid almost 8% of your wage in FICA. (By the way, your employer paid another almost 8% to FICA as well — the money which they just might pay to you if they weren’t paying it to the government, so you can choose to see that as a tax you pay as well).

You pay taxes. Every year of your life. And when you die, you pay again. Don’t let me ever hear you say, “Oh, I didn’t pay taxes this year — I got a refund.” Wrong. Wrong. Wrong.

This is Not About Tax Policy. It’s About Your Life’s Single Biggest Expense

This is not about political leanings, or tax policy. It’s about what will likely be (or already has become, and will only continue to be) the single largest expense of your entire life.

I’m guilty as charged. These Savings Tips that I’ve written have ranged from saving time and money with dinner groups to 29 Ways to Save a Fortune on Your Energy Bill.

If I were doing these tips according to bottom-line affecting expenditures, I’d probably be writing about tax savings two out of every five times. For almost everyone.

Going Back to the Refund Focus. Which Way Are You Facing?

At the beginning here I established that we’re trained to be refund-focused. With tax compliance software we’re trained to drop in data (what we’ve done) and have the computer spit out what we owe or are owed. We’re complying. We’re facing backward.

Over a year ago I wrote about preferring head-on to rear-end collisions (the metaphor breaks down quickly in real life, but you get my point) when it comes to making spending decisions. You want to be proactively looking forward and acting — not looking backward and reacting.

Taxes are the exact. same. way.

Remember TaxACT’s guarantee from above? How they mentioned the same data? They’re basically saying that their software will return the same result as another software because both softwares do an excellent job of looking back, crunching the numbers, considering the rules and spitting out the liability. Hang on to that thought.

If Things Were Simpler, It’d Be Easier. But They’re Not, so Let’s Move On

We can lament and moan (I do my share of it) about how economically costly tax compliance is. How it’s a huge drain (as a whole) on the economy with no value-add. How a client I worked on employed 35 people full-time to make sure their M-1 (that’s a C-Corporation’s return, that has maybe…12 boxes to fill out) was correct…

But we won’t.

blackcloud

Things aren’t simple. Life is complex. In honor of the season premier of Lost tonight, I’m going to say it’s a lot like that black cloud that haunts the island. It’s always there. Nobody knows what it is or how it works. And it kills you.

At the end of Lost this season, perhaps we’ll know how it works. At the end of this tax season, we still won’t know how the tax code works.

So, let’s just get comfortable with the idea that the tax code will always be complex.

Even for those situations where the tax scenario really is simple, we have divergent voices. The New York Times wrote a very interesting article days ago, “Why Can’t the I.R.S. Help Fill in the Blanks?” that cast some of the large tax preparation software backers in a negative light.

The gist: California uses ReadyReturn, where they send eligible Californians a pre-filled return. The data can then be validated by the person, but it “gets the ball rolling”. It costs the state $.34 to process a ReadyReturn, while a paper return filed in the traditional way costs $2.59 (not including the taxpayer’s savings in both time and possibly money).

The tax preparation software lobby pushes against this for obvious reasons. Intuit’s response is here.

Whichever side of that debate you’re on, it’s clear that there are interests hard at work on both sides, furthering their own agenda. What I want you to take away from this Savings Tip is that you need to have your own agenda.

What To Do About Your Single Largest Expense

The agenda is simple. Minimize it. Minimize your tax liability. Educate yourself.

My real awakening to this situation happened last year during preparation of our 2008 personal return. Before I get into that, let me tell you about my brother-in-law, Casey.

Casey is a tax preparation…guru? Yeah, guru’s the right word. He might be partially insane as well — he loves this stuff. Absolutely loves it. I’ve seen him become giddy over some strategy. It’s a sight to behold.

He’s also a straight-arrow. He deals in blacks and whites. Prior to using Casey, I used another CPA to prepare my taxes and heaven only knows how much money I overpaid (he was lousy, and I should have fired him immediately. Plenty of warning signs told me as much). This was all apparent once Casey got a hold of my tax documents for the 2008 return.

It’s the kind of thing where taking an expense here instead of there saved me over $10,000. I’ve been trained in taxes. The Reg section of the CPA exam was my shining moment (a 94 baby! Nothing to show for it now). I had class after class in school. I know enough to know that I need help.

$10,000 (and change)!

We used the money to help us pay down the mortgage.

But that money would have been gone. Forever. There’s literally nothing that you’re given in return for the extra you pay on your taxes. You are flushing money down the toilet. Stop doing that.

Casey’s in the know about this stuff though. He soaks it up. He prepares return after return and sees different situations. He dives into the tax code — discusses strategies and knows the forms inside and out. He’s a phenomenal resource.

I don’t think he’d want me to disclose what it cost me to have him prepare our 2008 taxes, but I will say it was a bargain (and I didn’t get any family discount :). An absolute, no-brainer bargain.

But here’s where the real value comes. Casey now can sit down with me and help me look forward and begin planning. For the 2008 return, he hadn’t seen anything going on prior to having my documents in hand. He was forced to comply and we still did phenomenal.

So the real value comes in being able to plan and structure things in such a way that your tax bill is minimized. Having that ability is, as Michael Scott (The Office) would say, “Incalclacable.”

I led into this talking about tax preparation software. I think, on net, it’s a positive thing. But don’t be deceived. No consumer-facing software is forward-looking. No tax prep software would have told me that I just needed to take my health expense here instead of there. It would have just accepted my answer and moved on. Did you hear that flushing sound? :)

The savings we found had to do with how we were handling health insurance premiums in relation to adjusted gross income (AGI) that was on a threshold of causing phaseouts for Roth contributions, child tax credits, and I believe some itemized deductions. Sound like a foreign language to you? Embrace it.

Remember, you need to have your own tax policy: Educate yourself. Pay as little as possible and use the savings to reach your financial goals.

And please, please, please people: Do not turn this into some raging political discussion. I’m not talking about tax policy. I’m talking about taking the tax hand you’ve been dealt and proactively making the most of it.

The End-All, Be-All Savings Tip

This is the end-all, be-all savings tip really. Because what it represents is an eternal spring of information to help you save money on virtually every aspect of your life.

Most everyone reading this blog is likely already on Facebook (add me as a friend here). Two years ago half of you hadn’t even heard of it, and the other half had perhaps signed up, but didn’t know why it was important.

Twitter is an even more recent phenomenon. Many of you reading this won’t (yet) have a Twitter account (follow me on Twitter here). It’s still new. And half of you that don’t have a Twitter account will rebut this with, “I don’t need to know what my buddy Steve is eating for breakfast.”

But it’s just because you’re probably using it all wrong :)

The other day I had a hankering to watch what was, at that time, one of the greatest documentaries of all time, Pumping Iron. A simple Facebook status update did the trick:

From one status update I had several options ranging from a bootlegged copy (I sell software for a living so…I’m not into stealing IP at all) to a Netflix trial (free) to borrowing it from a friend of mine (free).

I saved time and money.

People jump on social networks and think it should somehow be different than how things are when you’re out at a restaurant with friends, or surrounding a card table with buddies. It’s not. Or I guess I should say that it doesn’t have to be.

A “real life” example. My wife is a pro with health insurance. She’s not an agent or anything like that, but she’s learned a lot through experience and she will dispense her (money-saving) advice if you ask. She loves helping people save money in that arena. Really. She gets jazzed about it. We had friends over for dinner a few years ago where my wife pretty much single-handedly saved them $2,000. It had to do with them wanting to have a baby in the next year, supplemental insurance, some timeframe…anyway. They actually made money when their baby was born. (I guess I should state that this was totally legal, because I just re-read this paragraph and it sounds too good to be true.)

This was free advice for the taking.

Yahoo! Answers is pretty popular because it’s all about crowdsourcing the answer to a question. Wikipedia…crowdsourcing an encyclopedia.

I don’t mind getting answers from strangers, but I would much prefer getting answers from friends and colleagues because 1) I already have a relationship of trust with them and 2) it builds our relationship even more.

Now don’t just be a leach. Offer your help as well. Karma and all that.

We have a guy building us a sweet piece of furniture. How’d we find him? My cousin.

My Dad needed to sell his truck a while back. Who needed a truck? Strangely enough, another cousin of mine.

I needed to see Pumping Iron. Problem solved. (By the way, what was a breakthrough documentary at the time is now very dull. Our documentary-making skills have improved in the past 30+ years).

We needed some Flex developers for YNAB 3. Taylor (YNAB’s Lead Programmer Guru, follow Taylor on Twitter here) found them through a meetup.

You need a reliable car repair shop.

You’re looking for an old desk to transform into a workbench for your garage (“Does anyone have an old desk they want to get rid of?” You may ask.)

You see the writing on the wall and want to begin looking for other work.

You have no idea when to plant tomatoes in your area.

You’re looking for a new veterinarian.

I could go on and on. These networks you build virtually can be extremely useful in reality, saving you tons of time and money if you use them in this way. Remember to give back as well. That’s exactly what you’d do around the dinner table.

P.S. Let’s connect on Facebook and Twitter!

When All Else Fails, Go Back to the Basics (Pulling Irons Left)

My golf game will be doing just fine and I’ll be plodding along, slowly chipping away at a stroke here or there. This year has been the year of my fixed drive, which I’ve been enjoying quite a bit. Where I used to have a low, line-drive hook, I know have a high slice. Head down, swing through, and the slice goes away.

The strange thing is that as I seem to be doing well, I get a bit overanxious and my swing speed, particularly with my irons, starts to pick up. I lose a bit of my rhythm and end up pulling the ball. It’s as if my hands just pick up speed and I come around to quickly. Whether it’s my hands accelerating, or my hips slowing down…they get out of sync.

Just when things are really starting to roll for me, like when I was two over after eight holes…all I needed to do was par the last hole and I would beat my personal best by a stroke. I doubled it. I pulled my nine-iron on the approach shot and then had an indifferent chip shot, forcing me to two-putt.

When the pull starts creeping back in, I always go back to the basics:

How’s my grip?
Are my hips active on the backswing?
How’s my rhythm? (The solution to any rhythm problem I have is to always slow down).

If I can revisit each of those and do some checks, the pull goes away and I get my nice, normal (very playable) draw.

And so it is with money. It pays to revisit the basics when things start to go a bit off course. Are you finding that your EGG (a term Erin, YNAB’s online coach uses for Entertainment, Gas, and Groceries) has increased undesirably? Are you slacking on your Rainy Day funding of known but inestimable/unforeseeable expenses such as car repairs and medical expenses?

Has your debt-paydown intensity lessened?

Go back to the basics. Revisit your budget. Make sure you’re tracking every dollar. Ensure you’re living on last month’s income (only!). Fund your Rainy Day categories dutifully. Roll with the punches only when absolutely necessary.

This isn’t a tactical savings tip, but I think every once in a while we all need to be reminded that course corrections are a part of the journey — not failures, just fixes.

Significantly Cut Down Your Grocery Costs and Increase Your Spare Time. Really.

And this has nothing to do with building your downline or firing your boss to make 5k per week! (Insert intended sarcasm toward the end of that last sentence).

Some people in our neighborhood are actually doing something that’s helping them save significantly on their dinner bill and help them save time in the process.

Dinner groups.

Julie and I joined one recently and last night was our first experience picking up the dinner from our friends and enjoying (every bite of) it. Julie loved the fact that she didn’t need to prepare dinner (she was able to do a ton of other things on Her List) and I loved the fact that Julie loved it.

How does a dinner group work?
You find three other families nearby to participate. Each family is assigned a day of the week (excluding Friday and the weekend). When your assigned day comes, you prepare enough dinner to feed your family and the three others. The other families come by to pick up their dinner and you’re done.

On the other three nights of the week, you simply go over to the assigned family’s house and pick up your dinner.

There are variations on the idea. You can do only main dishes and worry about sides on your own. You can do one dish and one side, you could add dessert… we’re actually only doing it on Wednesdays at the moment — so every fourth Wednesday Julie prepares a meal. On the other three Wednesdays, we receive a meal.

At first I thought we were doing this because of our recent belt tightening, but it’s bigger than that.

Monetary Benefits of Dinner Groups
When you’re making “bulk” dishes, you don’t end up with leftover (sometimes wasted ingredients). You don’t need to go to the grocery store nearly as often. You simply spend less on groceries. It’s phenomenal.

Consider the fact that if you make yourself aware of deals at the grocery store, you can really capitalize on savings by purchasing that sale item in bulk. Plan your meal around the sales and you’ll save even more.

Other Benefits of Dinner Groups
Instead of saving time by purchasing pre-made meals or eating out (both more expensive and not nearly as healthy), you’re still saving time, but enjoying excellent food. Can you imagine what other things you could accomplish if you needed to make dinner three fewer times each week?

The time it takes to make four main dishes instead of one is marginal. You quickly scale and your efficiency is there almost immediately.

Another benefit is that you can grow closer to your neighbors/friends who are participating. You’ll see them more frequently and will build a stronger, more meaningful relationship.

A Few Tips Regarding Dinner Groups
Make a great meal when it’s your turn. Our first meal last night was phenomenal and we thoroughly enjoyed it. The great part about cooking less is that when you do cook, you can pull out all the stops. A fancy ingredient that you wouldn’t normally use for just one meal now becomes easily justified because you’re making four times the normal amount.

Also, on the flip side, make sure you create a dinner group with families that have similar tastes/food standards. By that I mean, if you’re not the biggest fan of fried food, you may not want to organize with families that love it :)

It helps to find families of similar size, though it’s not required. You simply make enough to feed the largest family and smaller families will have a few more leftovers they can take as lunch.

Communicate well with the group. Be selective about your feedback and remember the golden rule :)

If you’re single, dinner groups make even more sense, since you’re likely to forgo cooking for just a single person, resulting in paying more for food that’s not nearly as healthy.

Dinner Groups: A Conclusion
They work. They’ll save you money. They’ll save you time. Give it a shot and please share any experiences you may have had with dinner groups in the past!

That's Not as Cheap as it Looks (Beware of Tangential Purchases)

Adding MachineFor those of you that have read The Wallet for a while, you’re probably well aware of the fact that Julie and I don’t own a TV. Neither of us owned one when we were single, and when we married, we just decided not to purchase one (we were busy…and needed a car).

About four months into our marriage, somebody felt bad for us and actually left an old TV, VCR, and even some VHS movies on our doorstep as a surprise. After I burned an entire Saturday afternoon watching The Abyss (with all of the commercial breaks, as this was before Tivo), we knew we had to be rid of the TV. Julie ended up selling it to someone we worked with and we went out for Chinese food.

(We would have refused the TV and returned it to whomever had been so generous, but to this day they remain anonymous!)

At any rate, since we didn’t purchase season tickets to the BYU football games this year (remember, we’re tightening the belt until launch), I’m having a very strong desire to finally purchase a TV — just for football season!

Sports are the only thing that keep people from ditching cable completely, I know that.

But do you know what’s kind of squelched my desire? Tangential purchases. Sure, a TV isn’t that expensive, but then we need the monthly cable cost…and I know I don’t want to watch commercials, so I’d need a DVR or Tivo…and then we’d need a piece of furniture on which to place the TV…and since BYU doesn’t show on ESPN every week, I’d need to make sure our cable package showed The Mountain (what, you’ve never heard of that channel?)…

At the beginning of the summer I purchased a very, very sweet Weber gas grill. It is a phenomenal grill. I love it. But I’ve needed to be very careful about the other purchases that creep in as a result of the grill purchase (a manly apron, some grilling books, a grilling tool set perhaps…a grill cover, etc.).

Most every purchase of significance comes with tangential purchases attached. The BMW? Premium gasoline. The golf clubs? Don’t even get me started there (it ends with a golf simulator in your basement).

I remember when I heard that the Junior/Senior prom tickets were $35 a pop. I was floored. Little did I know that the $70 for tickets was just a drop in the bucket: dinner, car, corsage, tux, pictures…

Porter’s now playing flag football. Guess who needed to bring corn-filled treats to the game last Saturday ($15 later)? That’s a tangential purchase.

I suppose the bigger the purchase, the greater danger you have with these tangential purchases. Think about your house for a moment…

I think I made my point :)

A Tactical Tip – Substitutions to Save Money

Trent over at TheSimpleDollar wrote a fantastic, concise, tactical post all about substitutions that will save you money (and as I looked at the list, none of them required any more work than what you’re currently doing except perhaps a smidge more with foregoing paper towels).

At any rate, you should definitely check this out and implement at least two of them this weekend.

Cut Your Health Expenses Significantly…and I Tread Carefully

Eating Healthier...Probably Starts HereI fully intended to write a completely different money saving tip for today, but on my way into the office, I had a complete change of direction.

Taylor and I just chatted about my proposed topic. I usually don’t run topics by him beforehand, but wanted to with this one because it seems a bit more sensitive than most other topics.

I’ll also readily admit that this is not your “typical” savings tip. Today I want to talk about choosing a healthier (and with that, much cheaper) lifestyle.

As the health care debate rages on (a debate which I completely want to avoid here on this blog), health costs are high on everyone’s list of concerns. I’m concerned about it. Who isn’t? I suppose since my thoughts have been (almost forced) there with the incessant debate, I began thinking about our health and how it impacts our financial bottom line.

In doing a bit of research, I found a very interesting article over at the Wall Street Journal:

“Obese people spent 42% more than people of normal weight on medical costs in 2006, a difference of $1,429, the study found. Prescription drugs accounted for much of the increase.”

A difference of $1,400 in one year alone?

Wow.

And not to sound calloused or harsh, but we should all take a hard look at ourselves and ask us if we’re living a healthy lifestyle. Statistics tell us that 30% of us are obese, and another 30% of us are overweight. This leads to diabetes, hypertension, heart disease, etc.

While I don’t agree with how we determine obesity at the moment (I feel like the body mass index is flawed and overly-simplifies things), I think we can all take a good look at ourselves and see if there isn’t something we should be doing to make our bodies a bit healthier.

$1,400 per year! And with health costs only supposed to rise…what will that obesity-related number look like in another decade?

So…for this savings tip, I wanted to leave you with some very actionable ToDos that you may consider. I’m no fitness expert, so you can just chalk these up to a friendly reminder with a dose of common sense.

1) Order water at restaurants (avoid the calories, and save money to boot).

2) Park far away from the store entrance (you’ll always find a spot).

3) Bring your lunch to work. I don’t want to begin listing the calorie-dense, nutrient-less foods available at fast-food/quickie restaurants that are more expensive and are downright bad for you… just bring your lunch to work.

4) Here’s something I’ve been doing to conquer my 7:00 pm case of the I-feel-like-eating-dessert-right-now episodes: Drink twelves ounces of water. That usually fills me up enough to forget about my craving.

5) Find an accountability partner. Report to each other every Friday about how you did with your exercise, eating, etc. (I recommend Friday only to recommend a set day each week, not Friday in particular).

There you have it. Five very simple tips. #1 saves you money. #3 saves you money. #4 saves you money.

And on top of that, you’ll be healthier. According to everything I read in preparation for this, that’s going to save you a bundle now, and in the future.

(Photo: ebruli)

A Bit o' Interest & Saving on Checking Account Fees

If you’ve been on the YNAB site for only a few minutes you’ve probably already become familiar with Rule One of the YNAB Way: Stop Living Paycheck to Paycheck.

Basically what we want you to do is to take the money you earn this month and spend it/save it next month.

In a prior savings tip I wrote about using an ING High-Yield Online Savings Account (HYOSA people are calling them now — I love acronyms as well) for your Rainy Day Funds (Rule Three). We’ve been using one fantastically well to save for Christmas this year. It should be merry.

However, today I’d like to answer a question I receive from quite a few people regarding the Rule One Buffer (your ‘Buffer’ is the the money you earn in January that will be used in February…earned in March that you’ll use in April, etc.):

Do you ever keep your Buffer somewhere else so you’ll earn interest?

To be honest, I never have. There are a few reasons:

1) It’s a pain to have to move money back and forth. Even if I automate it, I still have to kind of have it in the back of my end.

2) There are two extra transactions I need to record in YNAB. Granted, they’re just transfers, but I try and minimize transactions overall.

3) The Buffer serves to help me if I have an overage (Rule Four). I can basically “borrow” from that money until the next month when YNAB forces me to pay it back.

However, a few Savings Tips readers pointed to ING’s Electric Orange account and I decided to give it a good look.

What is ING’s Electric Orange Account?

It’s an online-only checking account, plain and simple. I’ve had my same checking account for about nine years and have been hard pressed to switch. A few benefits with the ING Electric Orange account have really started to tug at me:

1) I can earn interest on my Buffer money. Now I don’t need to worry about those problems I mentioned above. The money sitting there has an interest rate that’s about 20x better than I currently get at Wells Fargo. (If you keep $50k+ in there the rate actually bests most online savings accounts.

2) I don’t need to pay ATM fees. For Julie’s birthday we went to Melting Pot (I don’t recommend it, by the way, except maybe for dessert). I don’t carry cash on me — it’s something I need to change, I know. At any rate, I didn’t have any cash and we used the valet parking because it was a lot cheaper than the rip-off garages everywhere else. So…I was stuck without cash. I jogged over to a random bank across the street and pulled cash out of their ATM – $3 fee. Lame.

According to ING, if I had been using their Electric Orange account, they would’ve covered the fee for me (I suppose they can, since they don’t have any physical branches…WAY less overhead…).

My first thought is…yeah, but which ATMs? I did a quick check and found there are three qualifying ATMs on my way from the office home (and it’s a 7-minute commute by scooter). It just needs to be on the Allpoint network. Fair enough.

3) Free bill pay. Wells Fargo charges for their bill pay service. I don’t know if your bank does. I think if I have some absurdly high balance with them then they wave the fee. Bill pay is a weaker benefit for me, since I usually set up online payments at each vendor for automatic pulling. However, lately I’ve been wanting to reign in the information that’s floating around out there about us, so it may not be a bad idea to have just one place keeping all of the sensitive data. Point ING Electric.

4) Write checks online. Save on postage. Julie and I don’t write a ton of checks, but it’s enough to dislike doing it. With ING Electric Orange you simply enter the payee information (name, address, etc.) and ING sends the check on your behalf. I save half a buck on postage/envelopes. Nice.

5) Electric checks. This one, at first glance, sounds a lot like Paypal — which I like. It turns out this is basically just an interface to input your friends’ routing/account #s and the you can send them money (they need to enter their routing/account # to receive it as part of a security check). This isn’t as slick as Paypal, but it does go from bank account directly to bank account, so that’s a big plus. I wouldn’t say this benefit has nearly the pulling power as the others listed previously.

6) A Mastercard debit card. This is hardly an extra perk. Every checking account offers this now.

7) Tight integration with your ING HYOSA. Money transferred from one to the other is instantaneous. This is fantastic if you like to maximize every penny you have earning interest.

The Savings Monetized (Sort of)

If your average checking account balance is $6,000 (not at all unusual for a YNAB Budgeter following Rule One), you’ll earn $30 per year in interest (at the time of this writing). Yeah, that’s not much, but it’s worth it.

Assuming you write and send four checks per month, you’ll save an additional $24/year on postage/envelope costs (roughly).

If you ever get nailed with ATM fees (I’ve been stuck w/o cash and a Wells Fargo nearby twice this year), you’ll save there again. For my own calculation, I tacked on four ATM visits at an average of $2.50 a pop – another $10/year savings.

Time. Ah, how do you monetize time saved? I’m not sure. If I save 20 minutes each month because I don’t have to write checks by hand, stuff the envelope, and mail them…that’s 240 minutes each year..4 hours..$400. That’s how I calculate time savings at least :)

A Few Other Fine Print Bonuses

Usually the fine print is where you’re nailed, so I read all of it. I was pleased to find this little nugget:

You pay interest if your balance drops below zero and you use your Overdraft Line of Credit. Unlike traditional banks, Electric Orange does not charge a fee to use your overdraft, and there’s no fee to sign up. If you use it, you will only pay interest on the amount you borrow.

We’ve overdrafted once in our life using YNAB. I think it had something to do with transferring money…I can’t remember exactly why. I think we had thousands sitting in another account and it was supposed to be in the checking account or something..and the IRS cashed our tax check. Yeah. I blame it on the IRS.

So anyway, for some people, you get nailed with a $30 overdraft hit every single time you run a charge when you’re in overdraft mode. You’ve got to stop overdrafting, but it’s also nice to not be hit $30 every time.

Also, the other day a babysitter of ours said she’d lost our $20 check for babysitting. I looked up what Wells Fargo charges for a stop payment on a check…$35. ING charges $25. (We didn’t do the stop payment, by the way).

I Just Re-Read This. It Sounds Like an Advertisement

Yeah, let me give you a downside. There aren’t any brick and mortar banks to visit in connection with this account. My plan is to keep my original checking account but not really use it for anything — just link it with my ING Electric Orange account.

Sorry this sounds like an advertisement. The Electric Orange account isn’t a completely new product. It’s been out for several months now. I wanted to wait a while before I checked it out to see what others have said about it. So far I haven’t heard any negative reports.

At the end of the day, this is about saving money. You’ll save on checks, postage, envelopes, time, atm fees, and overdraft fees. You’ll also earn some interest. It seems like something at least worth checking out.

Save a Small Fortune in Taxes re: Charitable Giving

This tip is specifically written to comply with US tax law. I’m not a tax attorney, or qualified tax professional, so seek competent, professional advice before actually implementing this suggestion.

Giving to Charity — the Normal Deduction
When you give to a charitable organization, the IRS allows you to deduct that contribution from your taxable income. For instance, if I had $60,000 of taxable income and donated $6,000 to a qualified charitable organization, my taxable income would be $54,000 ($60,000-$6,000).

What are the tax savings from this? It depends on my marginal tax rate. For the sake of this example, let’s say it’s 20%.

Without the charitable contribution, my taxes would be $12,000 ($60,000 * .20).

With the charitable contribution, my taxes would be $10,800 ($54,000 * .20).

Total tax savings as a result of the contribution: $1,200.

(The quick way to calculate the savings associated with any deduction is to multiply the deduction by your marginal tax rate. In this case, we would do: $6,000 * .2 and get $1,200.)

But this isn’t the Savings Tip.

Giving to Charity — the Souped-Up Deduction

Let’s suppose that instead of giving $6,000 in cash to a charitable organization, you gave $6,000 of an appreciated asset. For our example, let’s pretend you bought into XYZ stock at $1,000 and it has now appreciated to be worth $6,000. Let’s also assume that you had held the XYZ stock for three years.

First, let’s do an example without the charitable contribution.

You decide to sell the stock, in order to donate the $6,000 to a charity. Because you’ve sold a capital asset, you’re subject to the capital gains tax (remember, governments tax us buying, earning, growing, and dying). In this instance, your capital gain is $5,000 ($6,000 – $1,000). The capital gains tax is either 15% or 5% depending on your situation. For this example, let’s assume it’s 15%. The tax due on this sale of XYZ stock would be $750 ($5,000 * 15%). (Special Note: If the XYZ stock had been held less than a year, it would be classified as a short-term capital gain and would be taxed at our example person’s ordinary tax rate of 20%, so the tax on the realized gain from the sale would be $1,000, not $750).

BUT, you can completely avoid the capital gains tax if you simply donate the stock to the charity. The charity can then sell the stock and have the $6,000 in cash (less a tiny selling fee probably). So, you avoid a $750 capital gains tax because your basis increased from $1,000 to $6,000, but you get the full deduction available to you of the current value of the stock at $6,000.

This is the scary thing about taxes. You can do something one legal way and pay more. Or you can do it another legal way, and pay less.

This is also why you should get great advice. TurboTax is fine and everything, but it would never tell you what you should have done, only what the tax ramifications are from what you have done. I’m actually working with an extremely knowledgeable tax person about putting together some fantastic ways to save on taxes. We’re still in the concept stage, but I’m pretty excited about it.

Takeaway: If you’re going to be selling some stock, and you give to charities, considering giving the appreciated stock (or a portion of it) to the charity to avoid the capital gains tax.